1991 Subaru Legacy Oil and filter change

ID: 113139

Description: A detailed look at changing the oil and filter,...

Steps:

  1. Collect the tools you'll need
  2. Drain bolt wrench, drain-pan, jack, jack-stands, rags, filter-pliers, cardboard, funnel, gloves
  3. Check what drain bolt size and type your car uses before starting
  4. For Subaru specifically, I'll be using a black Tokyo Roki LFS706 factory filter, sold by a Subaru as part # 15208AA100 with a new crush washer
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  6. Jack up the front of the car from the centre jack point if you have a hydraulic jack
  7. Put jack-stands under pinch welds before gently lowering the car onto them
  8. Check the stability of the stands before getting under the vehicle
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  10. Check your drain pan is empty and clean it out as required
  11. Raise the hood/bonnet and open the filler cap to assist draining
  12. Place the drain pan under the car
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  14. Climb under the car using your cardboard or a creeper
  15. Remove the drain bolt slowly, adjusting the catch pan as it starts to flow to avoid spillage
  16. Wait for the oil to flow from the engine
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  18. Clean the bolt
  19. Remove the old crush washer if you have a new one
  20. Fit the new crush washer onto the bolt
  21. Clean the bolt mating flange on the cars oil pan
  22. Put the bolt back into the engine and tighten to the suggested spec
  23. If you don't have a torque wrench, don't over-tighten the bolt
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  25. Carefully adjust the now-full catch pan under the oil filter
  26. Remove the old oil filter, using pliers or a wrench if required
  27. If it's too tight and you don't have the right tools, you can hammer a screwdriver through the side and rotate it... But hope you have the right replacement!
  28. I like large oil filter pliers, as they can be used also for brake jobs
  29. The filter will be full of oil so place on your drain pan or carefully upright if your pan has no place for it
  30. After the car mounting flange stops dripping a lot, prepare the new filter with a smear of oil on its gasket
  31. Be 100% sure you've removed the old gasket before installing the new filter
  32. Wipe down the mounting flange on the engine, and screw on the new filter by hand, 3/4 of a turn past when it touches the gasket
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  34. Carefully slide the now-full catch pan from under the car
  35. Lift the car slightly and pull away the jack stands
  36. Carefully lower the car to the ground
  37. Push the front of the car down a few times to reset the suspension
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  39. If your drain pan has gradations you can guess approximately how much oil to put in
  40. Or if your manual has a listing
  41. My car takes AROUND 4.5 litres
  42. Using a funnel, pour in 3.5 litres or so
  43. Check the dipstick with your rag
  44. If you hold the large oil bottles sideways they won't glug as much
  45. Fill until near top of range on dipstick
  46. Re-check there are no loose tools or rags in the engine bay, and start the engine for 10 to 20 seconds
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  48. After running the car for a few seconds, turn it off
  49. Check the level again
  50. The oil filter should be full now, so the level might be lower
  51. Top up as required
  52. Check under the car for leaks
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  54. If you used all your oil you should be able to use the empty bottle to put the used oil in
  55. Funnel and lots of patience to transfer the oil from the catch pan to the empty bottle
  56. You can drop off the old oil at car part places or some mechanics
  57. Run the car around the block or so to get a temperature cycle and recheck level and leaks
  58. DONE
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