1991 Subaru Legacy Oil and filter change
ID: 113139
Description: A detailed look at changing the oil and filter,...
Steps:
- Collect the tools you'll need
- Drain bolt wrench, drain-pan, jack, jack-stands, rags, filter-pliers, cardboard, funnel, gloves
- Check what drain bolt size and type your car uses before starting
- For Subaru specifically, I'll be using a black Tokyo Roki LFS706 factory filter, sold by a Subaru as part # 15208AA100 with a new crush washer
- Jack up the front of the car from the centre jack point if you have a hydraulic jack
- Put jack-stands under pinch welds before gently lowering the car onto them
- Check the stability of the stands before getting under the vehicle
- Check your drain pan is empty and clean it out as required
- Raise the hood/bonnet and open the filler cap to assist draining
- Place the drain pan under the car
- Climb under the car using your cardboard or a creeper
- Remove the drain bolt slowly, adjusting the catch pan as it starts to flow to avoid spillage
- Wait for the oil to flow from the engine
- Clean the bolt
- Remove the old crush washer if you have a new one
- Fit the new crush washer onto the bolt
- Clean the bolt mating flange on the cars oil pan
- Put the bolt back into the engine and tighten to the suggested spec
- If you don't have a torque wrench, don't over-tighten the bolt
- Carefully adjust the now-full catch pan under the oil filter
- Remove the old oil filter, using pliers or a wrench if required
- If it's too tight and you don't have the right tools, you can hammer a screwdriver through the side and rotate it... But hope you have the right replacement!
- I like large oil filter pliers, as they can be used also for brake jobs
- The filter will be full of oil so place on your drain pan or carefully upright if your pan has no place for it
- After the car mounting flange stops dripping a lot, prepare the new filter with a smear of oil on its gasket
- Be 100% sure you've removed the old gasket before installing the new filter
- Wipe down the mounting flange on the engine, and screw on the new filter by hand, 3/4 of a turn past when it touches the gasket
- Carefully slide the now-full catch pan from under the car
- Lift the car slightly and pull away the jack stands
- Carefully lower the car to the ground
- Push the front of the car down a few times to reset the suspension
- If your drain pan has gradations you can guess approximately how much oil to put in
- Or if your manual has a listing
- My car takes AROUND 4.5 litres
- Using a funnel, pour in 3.5 litres or so
- Check the dipstick with your rag
- If you hold the large oil bottles sideways they won't glug as much
- Fill until near top of range on dipstick
- Re-check there are no loose tools or rags in the engine bay, and start the engine for 10 to 20 seconds
- After running the car for a few seconds, turn it off
- Check the level again
- The oil filter should be full now, so the level might be lower
- Top up as required
- Check under the car for leaks
- If you used all your oil you should be able to use the empty bottle to put the used oil in
- Funnel and lots of patience to transfer the oil from the catch pan to the empty bottle
- You can drop off the old oil at car part places or some mechanics
- Run the car around the block or so to get a temperature cycle and recheck level and leaks
- DONE