How To Replace the Left Barn Door Lock On The 2008–2014 Clubman

ID: 124824

Description: A common failure condition of the 2007–2014...

Steps:

  1. Fold the folding "flat-load floor" of the trunk (boot) back out of the way.
  2. Remove anything you have stored under it, as you’ll need to lift the actual bottom floor panel later.
  3. You're going to remove part #9 on this diagram. It’s held in place with four plastic expanding rivets on the inside of the luggage compartment, and three plastic clips that we’ll just pull out.
    4. Step image
  4. Remove the expanding rivets. Use your flathead screwdriver (or trim tool) to carefully pull out the center pin. (This will allow the shaft of the rivet to un-spread itself, so you can pop it out.)
  5. Then use the flathead screwdriver to pry underneath the edge of the rivet and work it out. This will require some force.
  6. You'll have to bend over to look inside the boot to see the rivets. A flashlight will help a lot.
    7. Step image
  7. Remove the bottom floor panel (part number 9 on the diagram)
  8. Use your fingers to pull the bottom edge of the Loading Sill Cover (part number 7) forward the front of the car.
  9. (That's away from you if you are standing outside the back of the car. I can't imagine where else you would be standing.)
  10. You’ll need to clear the metal tie-downs that are secured to the car’s body.
  11. The cover is stiff but somewhat flexible; you won’t break it and you will need to use some force.
    12. Step image
  12. As soon as you have cleared the tie-downs, pull straight up on the Loading Sill Cover.
  13. Pull hard. No, harder. Yes, that hard. Keep pulling. You won't break it.
  14. The three plastic clips that hold the sill in position should pop free.
  15. Sometimes the clips come loose from the cover and stay in the car! Pry them out with a screwdriver or trim too. Slide them back into their slots on the Loading Sill Cover.
  16. The hard part is now done!
    17. Step image
  17. Here’s a fresh diagram for you!
  18. Unscrew the two Torx bolts (part number 2 on this diagram). They’re slightly stiff but shouldn’t be too hard to remove.
  19. The lock mechanism is now free.
  20. Reach into the body through an opening right behind it, and pull it out!
    21. Step image Step image
  21. Disconnect the wire harness connector.
  22. Throw out the P.O.S. lock mechanism that failed on you.
  23. Plug the new lock into the wire harness.
  24. Screw the lock mechanism back in; there is some side-to-side adjustability but I found just putting it dead center had it lined up correctly with the door.
  25. Tighten the bolts very firmly.
  26. Don't strip the threads. You're putting steel bolts into steel threads so that's not likely, but these aren’t wheel bolts, so take it easy.
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  27. Ensure the split door is correctly caught and locks, and that it unlocks when you squeeze the handle
  28. Re-install the Loading Sill Cover.
  29. Make sure the three white plastic clips are slid into their slots inside the Loading Sill Cover.
  30. Put in position, line them up into their holes and press down.
  31. Tip: To make the clips pop into position, you’ll probably have to give them each a good, solid whack with your hand. (The clips rarely break; if they do, they cost about $0.70 each.)
  32. Re-install the four expanding rivets
  33. Remove the center pins from the expanding rivets.
  34. Push each rivet back into position, then insert the center pin and push it down.
  35. Check the rubber weather seal
  36. Make sure the rubber weather seal is OVER the Loading Sill Cover
  37. Put the floors back
  38. This is ludicrously simple, so I’m not describing it.
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