Nintendo Switch Left Joy-Con Shell Replacement

ID: 130378

Description: This guide will help you replace the shell of...

Steps:

  1. Start by unscrewing the four (4) tri-wing ("Y00")from the back panel.
  2. Keep the screws somewhere safe and organized.
  3. Step image Step image
  4. Insert an opening pick into the seam at the bottom edge of the controller (opposite the L and ZL buttons).
  5. Slowly slide the flat edge of your opening pick up the side of the Joy-Con.
  6. Step image Step image Step image
  7. With the charging rail facing away from you, open the Joy-Con like a laptop.
  8. Do not fully remove the back panel yet; there are still two ribbon cables connecting the charging rail to the motherboard.
  9. Step image Step image
  10. Gently pry the battery connector straight up from its socket on the motherboard using a plastic spudger (avoid metal ones to reduce the risk of shorting components). This will keep the Joy-Con from powering on during the repair.
  11. Use caution while working around the rumble's module cable which runs in the vicinity of the battery connector.
  12. When handling electronics and/or batteries, it's a good idea to wear at least an anti static bracelet.
  13. Step image
  14. Insert a spudger between the battery and the Joy-Con housing.
  15. Gently pry out the battery.
  16. The battery is lightly taped in place.
  17. Be careful not to deform, puncture or damage the battery.
  18. Step image Step image
  19. Remove the three (3) 3½mm golden Phillips #00 screws from the midframe.
  20. Step image
  21. Carefully flip the midframe over, away from the motherboard, as if you were turning the page of a book.
  22. The ribbon cables are extremely fragile. It is advised to use non-sharp tweezers rather than bare hands.
  23. Step image
  24. Use tweezers to flip the ZIF connector lock opposite the cable.
  25. The ZL button is locked in place by a small ZIF connector on the motherboard.
  26. Use tweezers to gently pull the ZL button flex cable out of its ZIF connector socket. The midframe is now disconnected and can be removed.
  27. Step image Step image
  28. Unlock the rail's top ZIF connector and then disconnect the cable.
  29. Unlock the rail's bottom ZIF connector and disconnect the cable. We can now remove the rail from the back frame.
  30. Remove the L button and its spring.
  31. Be careful because the spring tends to fling away.
  32. Step image Step image
  33. Remove the screw holding the rail in place. Remove the rail from the back frame and set it off to the side.
  34. Step image Step image Step image
  35. Remove the latch button and set it off to the side.
  36. Step image
  37. Depress the latch underneath the trigger using tweezers. Gently pry the trigger off.
  38. Make sure to note the position of the two springs under the trigger as they will need to go back in the same spot on the new mid-frame.
  39. Step image Step image
  40. Remove the screw holding the circuit board for the trigger in place.
  41. Remove the circuit board.
  42. Step image Step image
  43. Remove the screws holding the joystick in place.
  44. The top-left screw is covered by the L button's flex cable.
  45. Unlock the ZIF connector and remove the ribbon cable using tweezers.
  46. Step image Step image
  47. Remove the joystick.
  48. Step image Step image
  49. Remove the screws holding the flex circuit (marked by a red circle) for the minus and L buttons.
  50. Remove the flex circuit.
  51. Step image Step image Step image
  52. Remove the minus button.
  53. There will be a silicone membrane covering the minus button. Make sure to put it back over the minus button during reassembly.
  54. Step image
  55. Remove the screws holding the motherboard in place.
  56. Step image
  57. Using the spudger, gently pry the rumble pack out of its housing.
  58. Remove the rumble pack and the motherboard.
  59. Step image Step image Step image
  60. Remove the remaining five buttons from the shell.
  61. Step image
Back