iPhone 12 mini Battery Replacement

ID: 139693

Description: The iPhone 12 mini is more difficult to repair...

Steps:

1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
2. Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
3. Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

4. If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
5. Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
6. You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
7. Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

8. If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
9. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
10. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
11. If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
12. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

13. To avoid damaging your screen in the next steps, note the following:
14. There's a plastic bezel on the underside of the screen. Your opening pick will go underneath this bezel.
15. There's a seam between the plastic bezel and the display panel. Don't insert your pick here or you'll damage the screen.
16. Sometimes the display panel separates from the bezel before you even get a chance to insert a pick. This may be unavoidable depending on the condition of the adhesive. In this case, you’ll most likely need to replace your entire screen.

17. The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
18. For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
19. Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
20. Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
21. Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
22. Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
23. If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

24. Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
25. Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
26. Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

27. Support your iPhone on something sturdy such as a hardcover book so it rests hands-free and parallel to the ground; this makes it easier to work with in the following steps.
28. Use a hair dryer to heat along the bottom edge of the iPhone. The screen should feel slightly too hot to touch.
29. Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
30. Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
31. Make sure the opening pick is placed properly between the plastic bezel and the frame to avoid damaging your screen.
32. If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
33. Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
34. Skip the next three steps.

35. Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.
36. Heating the bottom half of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
37. Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom half of the iPhone until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
38. For best practices on using a hair dryer to soften adhesive, check out this guide. For warnings on heat gun use, check out this guide.
39. To prevent screen damage, keep your heat source moving rather than focused on one spot.
40. If you have trouble during the opening procedure, the adhesive most likely cooled down. Apply more heat to further soften the adhesive.

41. If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, as close to the edge as possible.
42. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

43. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the metal frame.
44. A plastic bezel is secured to the underside of the display, and needs to lift up with the display. Inserting a pick between the bezel and the display will damage the panel.
45. Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
46. Make sure to insert the opening pick under the thick plastic bezel to avoid damaging your screen. You should see a visual gap, and the pick shouldn't catch on anything. If you can't see the gap, you'll need to pull the screen up more.
47. The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

48. Don't insert your opening pick deeper than 3 mm along the bottom edge.
49. Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
50. Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

51. Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

52. Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner and along the right edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
53. Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.

54. Use a hair dryer to heat the top half of the iPhone until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

55. The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
56. Insert your pick underneath the top-right corner of the display panel.
57. Slide the pick around the top right corner. Because of the clips you might encounter some resistance.
58. Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the front panel sensor array.
59. Gently pulling the front panel assembly towards the bottom edge of the phone simplifies this step a little.
60. Slide the pick along the top edge and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

61. Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

62. Don't insert your pick deeper than 2 mm along the left edge to avoid the two cables connecting the screen to the phone.
63. Rotate your pick around the top left corner of the screen.
64. Slide your pick down the left edge of the screen to separate the adhesive.
65. If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, reheat the left edge.

66. Rotate your iPhone so the right edge faces you.
67. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
68. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
69. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
70. During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

71. Remove the 1.25 mm-long Y000 screw securing the battery & display connector cover bracket.
72. Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
73. During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

74. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the battery & display connector bracket.
75. There are two little hinges on the right edge of the connector bracket. Make sure to align them with their counterparts during reassembly.

76. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
77. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
78. Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

79. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the OLED panel cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
80. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

81. Remove the five 1 mm-long Y000 screws securing the front sensor assembly cover bracket.

82. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the front sensor assembly bracket.

83. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.

84. Remove the display assembly.
85. During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

86. Remove the four 1.5 mm-long Phillips #000 screws securing the speaker.

87. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the speaker.

88. Peel down the first battery adhesive pull-tab to un-stick it from the bottom edge of the battery.
89. Don't jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

90. Grab the pull tab with your fingers and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
91. Pull hard enough to maintain tension on the strip, but don't force it. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
92. Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
93. Keep the strip flat and unwrinkled. Try to pull evenly on the whole strip, rather than pulling mainly in the middle or on one side.
94. Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag on the edge of the battery.
95. If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
96. If any of the adhesive strips break off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, try to remove the other strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

97. Grab the wide pull tab with your fingers and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

98. Grab the pull tab with your fingers and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

99. Peel up the two remaining battery adhesive pull-tabs to unstick them from the top edge of the battery.

100. Using the same procedure as before, pull the remaining two tabs, one at a time, to stretch and remove the remaining adhesive strip holding the battery in place. Try not to snag the adhesive on anything.
101. Be careful not to fling the battery from the iPhone as the final adhesive strip comes out.
102. If you removed all the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
103. Otherwise, continue to the next step.

104. If you're still having trouble removing the battery, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
105. Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.
106. Use an opening pick or the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
107. Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

108. Remove the battery.
109. If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
110. Use this guide to install new battery adhesive strips.
111. Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.