MacBook Air 13" Early 2020 Battery Replacement

ID: 142673

Description: Use this guide to safely remove and replace the...

Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.
If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Air before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:
Two 7.9 mm screws
Two 7.1 mm screws
Six 2.6 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your MacBook.

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and press firmly to engage the two hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

Peel back the tape covering the battery connector enough to reveal the connector underneath.

Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board.

The left speaker will be on your righthand side when working on the MacBook, as it's laying upside down.
Slide the pointed end of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect it from the logic board.
With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.2 mm screw securing the left speaker to the case.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the black pull tab on the speaker's stretch-release adhesive until you can grip it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip's pull tab and slowly pull the adhesive strip out from underneath the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
Pull the adhesive strip until it's freed from under the speaker.
If the adhesive strip breaks, use a heated iOpener, a heat gun, or a hair dryer to help remove the adhesive:
Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.
Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

Remove the left speaker.
During reassembly, to ensure the speaker performs as expected, install a strip of replacement adhesive on its underside before placing it back into the case.

The right speaker will be on your lefthand side when working on the MacBook, as it's laying upside down.
Slide the pointed end of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect it from the audio board.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 4.2 mm screw securing the right speaker to the case.

Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the right speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
Grab the adhesive strip's pull tab and slowly pull the adhesive strip out from underneath the speaker.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
Pull the adhesive strip until it's freed from under the speaker.
If the adhesive strip breaks, use a heated iOpener, a heat gun, or a hair dryer to help remove the adhesive:
Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.
Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

Remove the right speaker.
During reassembly, to ensure the speaker performs as expected, install a strip of replacement adhesive on its underside before placing it back into the case.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the trackpad cable cover.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove two 2.5 mm screws securing the battery tray to the case.

The MacBook's battery cells are attached to a metal tray as a complete assembly, which is adhered to the case with a total of six stretch-release adhesive strips.
Do not attempt to remove the battery cells from their metal backing tray.
On the left side of the MacBook, use a pair of tweezers to peel back the three black pull tabs on the battery's stretch-release adhesive strips until you can grip them with your fingers.

Grab an adhesive strip's pull tab and slowly pull it out from underneath the battery.
Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
Pull the adhesive strip until it's freed from under the battery.
Repeat for the two remaining adhesive strips on the battery's left side.

Repeat and remove the three adhesive strips from the right side of the battery.
If any of the six adhesive strips broke during removal, you can use a plastic card to finish separating the battery tray from the case.

Remove the battery assembly.
During reassembly, secure the battery tray with strips of Tesa tape if your replacement battery doesn't come with pre-applied adhesive.
If you're installing a new battery, follow the calibration procedure:
Charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours.
Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery.
When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery.
Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.
If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

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