Steam Deck Screen Replacement

ID: 148986

Description: Use this guide to replace the screen (aka...

Steps:

1. Turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs, as a charged lithium-ion polymer battery can be dangerous if accidentally punctured.
2. As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
3. Power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.
4. If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck. If you attempt to remove the back cover with it still installed, it could snap right in half.
5. During your repair, it can be helpful at times to lay the Steam Deck face-down into its case to protect the thumbsticks and prevent wobble.

6. Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:
7. Four coarse thread 9.5 mm-long screws
8. Four fine thread 5.8 mm-long screws
9. Despite the standards, Phillips screwdrivers can vary in size and shape—two drivers labeled as the same size may fit differently in the same screw. Use the size that fits the snuggest into the screw head.
10. Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.

11. Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.
12. If you're having trouble inserting your pick at the grip seam, try starting at either the top or bottom long edges first, then slide the pick towards the grip.
13. Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.

14. Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.
15. Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.
16. Remove the back cover.

17. If you have a refreshed Steam Deck version with the black motherboard cover, skip this step.
18. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.
19. If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

20. Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:
21. One 3.4 mm screw
22. Two 3.7 mm screws
23. Only the two 3.7 mm screws along the left edge are present in refreshed Steam Decks.

24. Remove the board shield.
25. Depending on the age of your Steam Deck, this shield may stick to the thermal pads underneath.
26. During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.

27. Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.
28. Alternatively, use the flat end of a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently push the connector out of its socket, then disconnect it completely by hand.

29. Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.

30. With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.
31. Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.
32. During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.

33. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker from the top edge of the fan.
34. If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.
35. If the sticker feels like it might tear, use tweezers to peel up one edge just until you can grip it with your fingers, then remove the rest by hand.

36. For original Steam Decks: Use a Phillips driver to loosen and remove the two screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:
37. One captive 3.5 mm screw
38. One 3.4 mm screw
39. No, your eyes don't deceive you! The third heatsink screw was removed earlier in the disassembly: it doubles as the hidden board shield screw.
40. For refreshed Steam Decks: Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:
41. Two 2.9 mm screws
42. One 3.7 mm screw
43. During reassembly on both versions, tighten these screws in order (1, 2, 3) as stamped into the heatsink.

44. Lift and remove the heatsink.
45. Before reinstalling the heatsink, follow this guide to clean the heatsink and APU and reapply thermal paste.

46. Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the fan connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
47. Pull the fan cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

48. Use a pair of tweezers to peel up and remove the Wi-Fi shield tape.
49. If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

50. Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the speaker connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
51. Pull the speaker cable by its connector, not the wires themselves.

52. The Wi-Fi module is located next to the SSD on refreshed Steam Decks.
53. Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.
54. Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.
55. Repeat for the second antenna cable.
56. During reassembly, ensure that both antenna cables are reconnected at their appropriate connectors. The labels on the cables match the markings on the Wi-Fi module.
57. To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

58. Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable's ZIF connector.
59. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
60. Grip the cable by the pull tab, not by the cable itself.

61. Refreshed Steam Decks don't have this audio cable. If you have a refreshed version, skip the next three steps.
62. Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the audio cable's ZIF connector.

63. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
64. Grip the cable by its pull tab, not by the cable itself.

65. Carefully peel the audio cable off of the battery.
66. The audio cable is secured to the battery with some light adhesive.
67. If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the cable. Lightly heat the audio cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

68. Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable's ZIF connector.
69. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
70. Grip the cable by the blue pull tab, not by the cable itself.

71. Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3.7 mm screws securing the motherboard.

72. Remove the motherboard.
73. The audio and button board cables attach to the underside of the motherboard with ZIF connectors.

74. Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the sticker covering the display connector.
75. If possible, try not to rip or tear this sticker so it can be reused. Use a little bit of heat if necessary to soften the adhesive.

76. Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable's ZIF connector.
77. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.

78. Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for one minute.
79. A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the Steam Deck—displays and internal batteries are both susceptible to heat damage.

80. Apply a suction cup to the top left corner of the display by pressing down on it to create suction, as close to the edge as possible.
81. If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken glass.
82. Glass shards can complicate disassembly—or worse, cause injury. If your Steam Deck has a cracked screen, consider wearing safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

83. Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the display and the frame.
84. Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
85. Don't insert the pick more than 1/8 of an inch (~3 mm) or you risk damaging the display panel, ambient light sensor, or fragile cable underneath.

86. Slide the opening pick across the top edge to slice the adhesive.

87. Heat the right edge of the display for one minute.

88. Slide the opening pick down the right edge to slice the adhesive.

89. Heat the bottom edge of the display for one minute.

90. Slide the opening pick across the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

91. Heat the left edge of the display for one minute.
92. Slide the opening pick across the left edge to slice the adhesive.

93. Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the display, carefully lift the right edge up, opening it like a book.
94. Remove the display.

95. During reassembly:
96. Look over the new display adhesive and match each strip to its respective side of the display.

97. To ensure a good adhesive bond, thoroughly clean all adhesion surfaces.
98. Remove large chunks of adhesives with the flat end of a spudger or plastic opening tool.
99. Don't use metal tools, as they can scratch the surface.

100. Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to remove any remaining residue. Wipe in one direction with a lint-free cloth or coffee filter until all the adhesive residue is gone.
101. While isopropyl alcohol is generally safe to use on electronics, they will dissolve certain foam adhesives. Be careful to contain the alcohol when cleaning—don't use too much.
102. Allow any leftover isopropyl alcohol to completely evaporate before reassembly.

103. Before you peel any liners, locate the surface the sticky side should adhere to.
104. Once you have a good idea of where the adhesive strip goes, peel off and discard the liner, exposing the adhesive underneath.
105. Be careful with exposed adhesives. Most of the time, you can't peel and reapply adhesive strips if they're stuck to the wrong spot.

106. Hold the exposed strip by its tabs and carefully line up the edge of the adhesive to the outer edge of display.
107. Use your old display as a reference for where the new adhesive strips should be applied on the new display’s edges.
108. Be careful with alignment. Most of the time, you can't peel and reapply adhesive strips if they stick misaligned.
109. Set the adhesive onto the surface and press firmly with your fingers to set it in place.
110. Repeat the previous two steps for the three other display adhesive strips.

111. Peel off and discard the remaining plastic liners on all four strips, exposing the adhesive underneath.
112. Repeat for all four display adhesive strips, being careful not to touch any exposed adhesives.

113. Set the new display in place on the midframe and press firmly along the edges for 20-30 seconds to ensure a good adhesive bond.