2013-Present Nissan Rogue Rear Rotors(Discs) and Pads Replacement

ID: 152536

Description: Note: I've replaced rotors and pads on both my...

Steps:

1. If you have the Tin wheel version like mine; remove the plastic covers. Then loosen the lug nuts. Mine were so tight I ended up heating a couple of them get them loose! Maybe the alloy wheel lug nuts are always easier?
2. Jack the car and place it on axle stands. You can see where I placed my stands... there didn't seem to be clearly designated support points...

3. First open the hood and then the brake fluid reservoir. Next, insert a screwdriver or similar tool between the inner pad and the rotor; compress, (push in) the caliper piston. As soon as you're done doing so close the brake fluid reservoir, the fluid is hygroscopic. (absorbs water from thee air).
4. The Caliper is secured by slider pins with 14mm heads. The top pin is directly in line with the brake hose, (sadistic design Engineer?). I needed to apply significant heat with a blow torch to loosen them. So I used a cheap vise-grip to shield the brake hose from the heat!
5. Remove the pins with a 14mm socket. Note: the pin with the rubber on the end is the lower pin. Position the caliper in such a way that the hose will not be strained.
6. The Carrier for the Pads are held by two 17mm bolts, they too required a good deal of heat to loosen.

7. Most Rotors I have dealt with... a couple of taps... and they could be pulled off. Not These!
8. The rotors seemed to be bonded to the lugs and the wheel hub by rust. I was unwilling to strike the rotors hard since I feared it might damage the lugs and wheel bearings.
9. I used a wire brush attachment on a cordless drill I removed as much rust as I could. I next used a screwdriver to chisel off rust where the rotor met the wheel hub. I heated those areas with a blow torch then sprayed them with PB Blaster, repeating this on both sides.
10. When I could finally see a gap around the lugs I tapped the rotors loose with a mallet and pulled them off.

11. Once I had removed the old parts, I brushed the rust off the metal shield and spayed it with rust converter, then enamel paint. I sprayed everything down with brake cleaner.
12. I ground rust off the places the pad tins contact and applied a bit of brake grease to prevent corrosion recurring under the tins.
13. I cleaned the sliding pins and the holes they sit in with wet and dry sandpaper, then sprayed them clean using brake cleaner. I re-greased the pins and put them back in place with new boots. (rubber tipped pin at the bottom!)
14. I applied a little grease to the contact points of the shoes for the emergency brake.
15. I clipped in the pins and reassembled everything. The job took far longer than anticipated due to the rust... but this was in upstate NY.
16. I didn't have any, but if you have tin wheels may want to apply anti-seize grease on the lugs. I sprayed them with lithium grease after they were fully tightened to help keep water out.
17. Once the car was back on the ground I applied and released the emergency brake a few times to work in the grease applied to the contact points.