MacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2018 USB-C/Thunderbolt ports Replacement

ID: 152554

Description: This Guide will show you how to replace your...

Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.
Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
'sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."
You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.
When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command (typed into Terminal, as shown above):
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:
Two 6.2 mm screws
Four 3.4 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.
Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.

Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.
Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.
This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.
Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.
Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
Pull first at one corner, then the other.
Pull to the side—not up.
This can require a lot of force.

Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
Remove the tape.

Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

Carefully peel back the black tape to reveal the ZIF connector.
Unlatch the ZIF connector by flicking the arm on the connector upwards and carefully remove the cable from the connector by sliding it out.
Repeat this process with the newly revealed connector.
The two screws that are outlined in yellow are not relevant to this step and are marked on the board itself. For this step, yellow corresponds to the yellow rectangle in the image.

Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the two screws.
Two T4 Torx screws.
Carefully remove the metal shield.
Under the metal shield you will find two connectors, carefully unclip them.
The second cable you will disconnect will be lightly adhered so carefully slide a plastic spudger under it and finally unplug it.
The adhered cable is very thin and delicate so don't rush it and take your time.

Disconnect the cables carefully with a plastic pry tool.
Be gentle, if too much force is applied it can take the board connector up with it.

Carefully peel back the black tape to reveal the ZIF connector.
Unlatch the ZIF connector by flicking the arm on the connector upwards and carefully remove the cable from the connector by sliding it out.
Repeat this process with the newly revealed connector.

Carefully peel back the black tape to reveal the ZIF connector.
Unlatch the ZIF connector by flicking the arm on the connector upwards and carefully remove the cable from the connector by sliding it out.

Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the screw.
T4 Torx screw.
Remove the metal shield carefully.
Carefully unplug the connector.
The two screws that are outlined in yellow are not relevant to this step and are marked on the board itself. For this step, yellow corresponds to the yellow rectangle in the image.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4mm screws securing the display cable bracket.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.2mm screws securing the display cable bracket.
Remove the bracket.
gently disconnect the flex cable with a spudger.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the six 2.2mm screws securing the logic board.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the three 1.9mm screws securing the logic board.
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.3mm (3.7mm head) screws securing the heatsink.