Changing the engine oil and replacing the oil filter (H4D)

ID: 152637

Description: Applicable to H4D engines only (tutorial...

Raise the oil dipstick and unscrew the filler cap to facilitate the flow of oil.
Place a drain pan under the vehicle to collect the oil.
Approximately 4.3L of oil will be drained from the engine.
Loosen the drain plug using an 8mm square wrench then finish by hand.
Allow the oil to drain until there are no more drops.
It is possible to pour a small amount of new oil through the filler hole to flush out any remaining dirty oil still in the crankcase.

Move the drain pan to under the oil filter.
Unscrew the oil filter by hand, keep it facing upwards: it is still full. Use and/or obtain a filter wrench if it is too tight.
As soon as the filter is unscrewed, oil will begin leaking.
If the oil pan plug was replaced just prior, it is wise to remove it and let it drain again: oil from the filter galleries may have gotten back in.
If your arm is long enough, you will be able to easily reach the filter from in front of the right rear wheel.

Pre-fill the filter with an oil of recommended specifications (see Wiki). Fill it as much as possible, taking into account the fact that it is installed at an angle.
You will notice that the filter element acts like a sponge when pre-filling the filter. Do not hesitate to fill it several times so that it is perfectly soaked and filled for the first start.
A filter installed 'dry', not pre-filled, will considerably increase (by several seconds) the priming time and pressurization of the oil circuit at first start, which will cause additional engine wear.
Lightly lubricate the seal.
Clean the adjoining surface then screw in the new filter, preferably by hand. You can use a sheet of paper toweling to help yourself grip the filter better.
The thread can be difficult to bite, especially if you install the filter blindly. (you can try turning it backwards until it 'clicks' into place, to make that easier)

Clean the engine oil pan area and wipe the oil dipstick.
Replace the drain plug gasket. The grooved side must be on the side of the cap if it has one.
Tighten the drain plug using an 8mm square wrench to a torque of 50 N.m (RTA).

Disconnect the connectors from the 3 injectors to prevent the engine from starting and proceed later to prime the oil circuit.
The priming procedure consists of circulating the oil throughout the engine block (using only the starter) to refill the galleries and lubricate the parts. Wear can thus be limited compared to a conventional start-up, with the motor rotating slowly and without load during initial pumping.
Disconnecting the injectors also avoids the risk of flooding and fuel dilution, since no fuel can be injected.
The Twingo IIIs do not have a 'clear flood mode', which can be activated on other vehicles with the accelerator pedal. Disconnecting the injectors is therefore mandatory to achieve what we desire here, the injection being not completely cut off with the pedal so starting would even be possible.

Fill the crankcase to the MAX level with an oil with the specifications mentioned in the Wiki.
The theoretical oil capacity is: 3.7L for the crankcase + 600mL for the filter (4.3L in total). In fact, you had to load the filter a little less so as not to spill any oil since it is installed at an angle.
Between 0.9 and 1.1L separate the MIN and MAX of the gauge depending on the engine (H4D or H4Bt). You must wait a few minutes for the oil to drain down into the pan to ensure a reliable oil level reading.
Do not exceed the maximum level. A number of very adverse effects could occur.
Applicable to all: Run the engine with the starter for several seconds to circulate the oil. Repeat twice.
SPECIFIC models where the dashboard (oil pressure light is displayed with the engine stopped): Turn the starter until oil pressure is detected. Repeat twice.
It can take up to 10 seconds to reach the oil pressure needed on the first crank of the starter. The circuit is considered primed when the oil pressure only takes 2 to 3 seconds to build.
If the starter is held for more than 10 seconds, a temporary non-critical engine light will appear.
The engine light is predictable and non-critical: continue following this guide to the finish without worrying about it. Drive a few meters after the end of the oil change so that the computer regains confidence in the indications from the MAP sensor: the engine light will disappear by itself. Otherwise, clear it with an OBD tool.

Wait a few minutes after priming the engine oil circuit with the starter.
Check and adjust the oil level. This should move very little after the first real start, the circuit having just been primed.
Do not exceed the maximum level. A number of very adverse effects could occur.
Reconnect the 3 injectors.
Start the engine and let it idle for a few moments.
Listen carefully to the sound of the engine and make sure there are no suspicious noises.
You can judge how the engine sounds compared to the previous oil.

Stop the engine.
Wait a few minutes. Check the oil level again and adjust if necessary.
Do not exceed the maximum level. A number of very adverse effects could occur.
In the 'Drain Autonomy' menu, hold one of the two buttons on the right "control stalk" for a few seconds to reset the counter.
The current drain range will flash for a few moments before returning to 20,000km, 360 days (default).
The oil change indicator does not take into account the vehicle's usage conditions (e.g. short journeys, sports use, fuel). You are responsible for shortening your intervals based on your usage.
Shown on Twingo III Ph.1, but with modified dashboard configuration: digital speedometer activated.

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