iPhone 14 Loudspeaker Replacement

ID: 152976

Description: Use this guide to remove and replace the...

Steps:

  1. Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  2. Remove the two 6.8 mm-long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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  4. If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
  5. Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
  6. You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
  7. Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.
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  9. If your iPhone has a cracked rear glass, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
  10. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's rear glass until the whole face is covered.
  11. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
  12. If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the rear glass with that instead.
  13. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the rear glass.
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  15. Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the rear glass is slightly too hot to touch.
  16. Never leave your hair dryer in one spot for an extended period of time.
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  18. Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the rear glass, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.
  19. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the rear glass and the case.
  20. Insert an opening pick into the gap.
  21. The adhesive holding the rear glass in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the rear glass up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your opening pick.
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  23. Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the rear glass is slightly too hot to touch.
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  25. Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the rear glass in place.
  26. Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
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  28. There's a delicate cable along the right edge, next to the volume up button. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cable.
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  30. Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the volume buttons) for 90 seconds or until the rear glass is slightly too hot to touch.
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  32. Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
  33. Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the charging coil cable.
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  35. Use a hair dryer to heat the top edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the rear glass is slightly too hot to touch.
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  37. Insert your pick underneath the top right edge of the phone. Slide it around the top-right corner and halfway across the top edge.
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  39. Insert your pick underneath the top-left edge of the phone. Slide it around the top-left corner and halfway across the top edge.
  40. Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage or smear the camera array.
  41. Don't try to fully separate the rear glass yet, as a fragile ribbon cable still connects it to the iPhone's logic board.
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  43. Remove your suction handle from the rear glass.
  44. Slowly open your iPhone by swinging the rear glass up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
  45. Be careful not to strain the short charging coil flex cable.
  46. Lean the rear glass against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
  47. If you don't have anything at hand to lean the rear glass against, your suction handle can do the trick.
  48. During reassembly, lay the rear glass in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the rear glass and make sure they aren't bent.
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  50. Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the two 1.3 mm-long screws securing the battery connector cover.
  51. Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
  52. During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.
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  54. Grasp the battery connector cover with a pair of tweezers and slide it upwards (towards the A15 print) to unlatch the top hook.
  55. Remove the battery connector cover.
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  57. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
  58. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
  59. Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
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  61. Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the single 1.0 mm-long screw securing the charging coil connector cover.
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  63. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the charging coil connector cover.
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  65. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the charging coil cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
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  67. Remove the rear glass assembly.
  68. Apply new adhesive where it's necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).
  69. During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the rear glass adhesives.
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  71. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 2.1 mm-long screws securing the Taptic Engine.
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  73. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Taptic Engine connector bracket.
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  75. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
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  77. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the Taptic Engine.
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  79. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.5 mm-long screw securing the metal bracket on the right side of the charging port.
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  81. Use a pair of tweezers to carefully fold the metal bracket in an upright position to unhinge it from its plastic hook.
  82. During reassembly make sure to align the bracket correctly with the plastic hook.
  83. Remove the metal bracket.
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  85. Use a screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the loudspeaker:
  86. Three 1.4 mm-long Phillips screws
  87. One 1.6 mm-long Phillips screw
  88. One 1.2 mm-long Y000 screw
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  90. Use the pointed end of a spudger to carefully fold the grounding cable at the right edge of the loudspeaker to the side.
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  92. Remove the loudspeaker.
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