MacBook Pro 16" 2023 Battery Replacement

ID: 158649

Description: Use this guide to replace the battery in your...

Steps:

  1. Allow your MacBook's battery to drain below 10% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
  2. Fully shut down your MacBook, close the lid, and flip it over. Keep the lid closed until you've physically disconnected the battery.
  3. Unplug the MagSafe cable and any accessories connected to your MacBook.
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  5. Use a P5 pentalobe driver to remove the eight screws securing the lower case:
  6. Four 9.1 mm‑long screws
  7. Four 6 mm‑long screws
  8. Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
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  10. Apply a suction handle to the center of the lower case's front edge.
  11. Pull up on the suction handle to create a gap between the lower case and the frame.
  12. Insert an opening pick into the gap.
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  14. Slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner and up the right edge of the lower case.
  15. If your pick gets stuck at the cutout, use your fingers to lift the lower case up slightly to allow your pick to slide underneath.
  16. Slide your pick until it reaches the middle of the cutout, or until the rightmost clip stops it from sliding.
  17. Twist your pick to release the two right clips.
  18. You'll hear and feel a pop when each of the two clips releases.
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  20. Slide your opening pick around the bottom left corner and up the left edge of the lower case.
  21. If your pick gets stuck at the cutout, pry the lower case up slightly to allow your pick to slide underneath.
  22. Slide your pick until it reaches the middle of the cutout, or until the leftmost clip stops it from sliding.
  23. Twist your pick to release the left two clips.
  24. You'll hear and feel a pop when each of the two clips releases.
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  26. Sliding clips along the back edge of the MacBook further secure the lower case. Separating these clips may require a lot of force—consider using gloves to protect your hands from the sharp edges of the lower case.
  27. Firmly pull the lower case away from the back edge, one corner at a time, to disengage the sliding clips.
  28. Keep the lower case flat to the MacBook. Don't pull upward until it's completely separated.
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  30. Remove the lower case.
  31. To reinstall the lower case:
  32. Lay it down and align the sliding clips with the back edge of the MacBook. Press down on the lower case and slide it toward the back edge to engage the clips.
  33. When one side is engaged, it may push the other out of alignment. Check both sides as you push.
  34. Once the back corners of the lower case are secured and flush with the frame, press down along the middle of the lower case to engage the four remaining clips.
  35. You'll hear and feel each clip snap into place.
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  37. Use a 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the trackpad cable bracket.
  38. Remove the bracket.
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  40. Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable press connector from the logic board.
  41. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down in the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.
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  43. The trackpad cable is lightly adhered to the battery board.
  44. Peel the trackpad cable from the battery board.
  45. Move the cable over the front edge of the MacBook.
  46. Be careful not to crease the cable.
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  48. Peel back the tape covering the battery data cable connector on the logic board.
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  50. Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the battery data cable ZIF connector.
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  52. Slide one arm of your blunt nose tweezers under the battery data cable.
  53. Grip the cable just below the head of the connector.
  54. Slide the connector straight out of its socket.
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  56. Peel back the tape covering the battery data cable connector on the battery board.
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  58. Use the point of your spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the small locking flap on the battery data cable ZIF connector.
  59. Use blunt nose tweezers to grab the battery data cable just under the head of the connector and slide it straight out of its socket.
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  61. The battery data cable is adhered to the battery board and logic board.
  62. Peel the cable from the battery board and the logic board.
  63. Remove the cable.
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  65. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.9 mm pancake screw securing the battery connector.
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  67. Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the battery connector away from the battery board, disconnecting the battery.
  68. Lift the connector high enough that it doesn't accidentally make contact during the repair, but no more than 45 degrees to prevent damaging its hinge.
  69. For added safety, place a barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and board.
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  71. Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the 13 screws securing the trackpad:
  72. Ten 5 mm screws
  73. Three 5.8 mm screws
  74. These screws all look similar—be careful not to mix them up.
  75. During reassembly, center the trackpad in the frame before fully tightening the screws.
  76. Adding a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads during reassembly can help prevent the screws from working themselves loose over time.
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  78. Open your MacBook slowly. The trackpad will remain on the screen.
  79. Be careful not to lose the nine small metal washers from their screw posts on the trackpad, as they can fly off and become lost very easily. Without them, your trackpad won't fit properly.
  80. Guide the trackpad cable through its slot in the frame.
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  82. Remove the trackpad.
  83. Before installing your trackpad, make sure all nine washers are in place:
  84. Four rectangular washers
  85. Five circular washers
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  87. Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the two screws securing the battery board to the frame:
  88. One 4.4 mm screw
  89. One 3.8 mm screw
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  91. 14 stretch-release adhesive strips secure the battery cells to the frame:
  92. Eight strips along the left and right edges of the battery
  93. Six strips accessed from the trackpad recess
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  95. Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grip the black pull tab on one of the adhesive strips.
  96. Pull the strip out slowly and at a low angle to the frame. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick.
  97. If a strip breaks off, try to retrieve it from under the battery with your fingers.
  98. Repeat this process for all 14 stretch-release adhesive strips.
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  100. If all 14 strips came out without breaking off, you can skip the next two steps.
  101. Apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) under the battery near the broken adhesive strips.
  102. Avoid applying isopropyl alcohol under the speakers, as it will loosen them from the frame.
  103. Wait one to two minutes for the adhesive to soften.
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  105. Insert a plastic card under each battery cell where the stretch-release adhesive strips broke.
  106. Slice the remaining adhesive and pry up to separate the cells from the frame.
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  108. Slide the battery toward the bottom of the MacBook and remove it.
  109. If any adhesive remains, clean it with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol and wipe it with a lint-free or microfiber cloth.
  110. Before removing any adhesive liners from your new battery, place it in its recess to make sure it fits. Then, remove the adhesive liners and firmly press each cell into place.
  111. If your battery doesn't come with adhesive, secure it with new stretch-release adhesive.
  112. Alternatively, you may use strong double-sided tape such as Tesa Tape to secure the battery.
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