Scuf Instinct Pro Charging Board Replacement

ID: 163219

Description: Follow this guide to replace the charging board...

Unplug all cables from your controller before starting.
Completely power off your controller.
Due to the controller’s odd shape, it can be helpful to stabilize it as you work. To prevent damage, consider laying it on a soft surface like a cloth or towel.

Weak magnets and two clips along the bottom edge secure the battery cover to the controller.
Slide the battery cover away from the controller to remove it.

If your batteries are starting to corrode, clean the contacts and replace the batteries.
Use your fingers to remove the batteries.
During reassembly, insert the batteries so their positive (+) and negative (–) ends match up with the markings on the battery contacts.

The sticker in the battery recess hides a back cover screw.
If you don't care about damaging the sticker, you can puncture through the center and skip the next step.
Use a hair dryer to heat the sticker and soften the adhesive securing it.
The sticker can be peeled without heating, but you risk tearing it.

Use the point of a spudger to push up a corner of the sticker until you can grab it with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.
Use your tweezers to peel up the sticker until the back cover screw is accessible.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Use a T8 Torx screwdriver to remove five 9.3 mm‑long screws securing the midframe:
One back cover screw
Four screws on top of the midframe
Use a T6 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 9.3 mm‑long screws securing the midframe.

Plastic clips secure the bottom edge of the midframe.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the bottom edge of the midframe and back cover.
Pry the midframe up with the spudger to release the clips.
Continue prying along the bottom edge to release the remaining clips.
Don't try to remove the midframe from the back cover yet—a delicate ribbon cable connects them.

Put a box or a stack of books to the right of the controller so you can prop up the midframe while disconnecting its ribbon cable.
Secure the back cover with one hand, and use your other hand to grip the midframe's left edge.
Lift the midframe and rotate it over the right edge of the back cover, so the midframe's right edge is on your workspace.
Prop the midframe up, being careful not to strain the ribbon cable.

During reassembly:
Guide the battery connectors on the midframe through their slot in the back cover.
Make sure the contacts slide into their grooves in the battery recess. If they aren't in the correct spot, the controller won't receive power.

A very small rubber grommet secures the midframe's ribbon cable to a post on the right side of the back cover.
Use blunt nose tweezers to remove the grommet—don't lose it!

Use the flat end of a spudger or a clean fingernail to lift the hinged locking flap on the midframe cable ZIF connector.

The top of the USB‑C port cover is secured with a pair of plastic arms. The bottom is secured with plastic clips.
Rotate the underside of the USB‑C port cover up and away from the controller to release the bottom clips.
Unhook the plastic arms and remove the cover.
During reassembly:
Hook the ends of the USB‑C cover's arms into their slots on either side of the Xbox button.
Rotate the cover downward until the bottom clips engage and the cover is flush with the bumpers.

Firmly secure the controller with one hand, and use your other hand to lift the thumbstick covers straight off their modules.
This requires significant force. If you're having trouble, try wiggling the cover to help loosen it.
To install a thumbstick cover:
Place and rotate the cover on its module until it slides into place.
Firmly press down on the cover until it snaps into place or bottoms out.

Use the point of a spudger to guide the trigger rumble motor wires out of their clips on the midframe.

Be very careful not to scrape off or damage any surface mounted components during this step.
Flip your controller over.
Insert an arm of your angled tweezers under the metal neck of one of the coaxial connectors and lift straight up to disconnect it from the thumbstick board.
Disconnect the other connector.
To reconnect coaxial connectors, hold each one in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of your spudger. The connector will snap into place.

Use a T6 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 7 mm‑long screws securing the thumbstick board.

The thumbstick and charging boards are connected with a socket.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the bottom edge of the thumbstick board and midframe.
Twist the spudger to separate the boards.
During reassembly, gently push the thumbstick board onto the charging board until you feel the plug slide into the socket.

Delicate wires are soldered to the outer edges of the thumbstick board. Be very careful during this step to avoid tearing the wires from the board.
Gently lift the thumbstick board and reposition it over the bottom of the midframe so the board is standing upright.
The headset jack may fall out, as nothing is securing it to the charging board anymore.
During reassembly:
Use the alignment posts to orient the board.
When lowering the board into place, make sure the black antenna cables don't get stuck under the board.

Remove the headset jack from the bottom right corner of the charging board.
During reassembly:
Make sure the headset jack is properly oriented, with the socket on the bottom edge of the charging board and the gold contacts facing up.