MacBook Pro 14" Late 2023 (M3 Pro and M3 Max) Antenna Bar Replacement

ID: 167646

Description: Use this guide to replace the antenna bar in...

Allow your MacBook's battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Fully shut down your MacBook, close the lid, and flip it over. Keep the lid closed until you've physically disconnected the battery.
Unplug the MagSafe cable and any accessories connected to your MacBook.

Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the screen and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove eight screws securing the lower case:
Four 9.3 mm screws
Four 5 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
Pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap under the lower case.

Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.
This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.

Sliding clips along the back edge of the MacBook further secure the lower case. Separating these clips may require a lot of force—consider using gloves to protect your hands from the sharp edges of the lower case.
Firmly pull the lower case away from the back edge, one corner at a time, to disengage the sliding clips.
Keep the lower case flat to the MacBook. Don't pull upward until it's completely separated.

Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Lay it down and align the sliding clips with the back edge of the MacBook. Press down on the lower case and slide it toward the back edge to engage the clips.
When one side is engaged, it may push the other out of alignment. Check both sides as you push.
Once the back corners of the lower case are secured and flush with the frame, press down along the middle of the lower case to engage the four remaining clips.
You'll hear and feel each clip snap into place.

Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector on the logic board.

Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.

Use a 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the two 2.1 mm‑long screws securing the trackpad cable bracket to the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable's press connector secured to the logic board.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

The trackpad cable is lightly adhered to the frame.
Peel the trackpad cable away from the device, making sure to separate the adhesive.

Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector under the large pancake screw.

Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the battery board.

The battery board data cable is lightly adhered to the device.
Slide blunt nose tweezers under areas with adhesive to separate the cable from the device.
Remove the battery board data cable.

Use a 5IP Torx Plus driver to remove the 3.8 mm wide-head screw securing the battery power connector.

Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the battery connector away from the battery board, disconnecting the battery.
Lift the connector high enough that it doesn't accidentally make contact during the repair, but no more than 45 degrees to prevent damaging its hinge.
For added safety, place a barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and board.

Use your 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the three 2.1 mm-long screws securing the antenna connector cover and bracket.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the cover on top of the antenna bar's coaxial cables.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bar's coaxial cable.
Repeat for the two other cables.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Use a 5IP Torx Plus screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the antenna bar to the frame:
Two 7.5 mm screws
Four 3.2 mm screws
Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the nine 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna bar to the frame.
These screws strip very easily; use constant downward pressure and work slowly when you loosen these.