iPhone 15 Pro Taptic Engine Replacement

ID: 168185

Description: Use this guide to replace the Taptic Engine in...

Steps:

  1. Let your phone's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair—a charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.
  2. Unplug all cables from your phone.
  3. Hold the power and either volume button and slide to power off your phone.
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  5. If your screen or back glass is cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.
  6. Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.
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  8. If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
  9. Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
  10. You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
  11. Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.
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  13. Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to remove the two 7 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.
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  15. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.
  16. Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.
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  18. Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.
  19. Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.
  20. Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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  22. As you slice the adhesive securing the screen in the next steps, be careful of the following areas:
  23. There are two delicate cables connecting the screen to the phone: one just above the action button, and the other near the middle of the left edge.
  24. There are multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be extra careful not to insert your pick deeper than suggested in these locations to avoid bending the contacts.
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  26. Don't insert your opening pick deeper than 3 mm along the bottom edge.
  27. Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
  28. Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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  30. Heat the right edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.
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  32. Don't insert your pick deeper than 5 mm along the right edge.
  33. Slide your pick around the bottom right corner of the screen and toward the power button until you feel a hard stop at a clip securing the screen.
  34. Rotate your pick so the flat edge is under the screen.
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  36. Twist the pick to increase the gap between the screen and the frame until the right clip releases.
  37. Insert a second opening pick to the right of the first pick.
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  39. Slide the first pick back to the bottom right corner of the screen.
  40. Slide the second pick to the top right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.
  41. Leave these picks inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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  43. Heat the top edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.
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  45. Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm along the top edge.
  46. Slide your pick around the top right corner and along the top edge to release the two clips and adhesive securing it.
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  48. Heat the left edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.
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  50. Don't insert your pick deeper than 2 mm along the left edge to avoid the two cables connecting the screen to the phone.
  51. Rotate your pick around the top left corner of the screen.
  52. Slide your pick to the bottom left corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.
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  54. Place a small box or stack of books to the left of your phone so you can prop up the screen while disconnecting its cables.
  55. Swing up the right edge of the screen like the front cover of a book.
  56. If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with an opening pick to separate any remaining adhesive.
  57. Prop up the screen so you can access its cables without straining them.
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  59. Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the logic board cover:
  60. Four 1.6 mm‑long screws
  61. Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
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  63. Rotate the bottom of the logic board cover counterclockwise and slide the top left corner out from under the ambient light sensor cable to remove it.
  64. During reassembly, make sure the top left corner of the cover goes under the ambient light sensor cable.
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  66. Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from the bottom right corner of the logic board.
  67. To reconnect a press connector, align it over its socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. Make sure it sits flat, as the insulating rubber around the sockets might prevent it from connecting fully.
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  69. Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the screen cable from the center of the logic board.
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  71. Gently slide the tip of an opening pick under the ambient light sensor cable near the top left corner of the logic board.
  72. Lift the cable to disconnect it.
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  74. Remove the screen.
  75. During reassembly, follow this guide to apply new adhesive and install your screen.
  76. Be careful not to damage any of the spring contacts as you clean the frame.
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  78. Use a Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker:
  79. One 2.7 mm‑long screw
  80. Three 2 mm‑long screws
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  82. A plastic buffer is adhered to the top edges of the loudspeaker and Taptic Engine.
  83. Lift the bottom edge of the loudspeaker until you can grab it with your fingers.
  84. Peel the loudspeaker from the plastic buffer on its top edge and remove it.
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  86. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine press connector.
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  88. Use a Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the two 2 mm‑long screws securing the Taptic Engine.
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  90. Remove the Taptic Engine.
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  92. During reassembly, remove the plastic buffer that's adhered to the top edge of the Taptic Engine and transfer it to your replacement part.
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