Meta Quest 2 Power Button and LED Board Replacement

ID: 169156

Description: This guide shows how to remove and replace the...

Steps:

1. Hold the power button for three seconds to fully turn off your headset.
2. You'll hear a power down chime, and the LED next to the power button will turn off.

3. Grasp and pull on the nose section of the facial interface to unclip it from the headset.

4. Grasp and pull on the top section of the facial interface to unclip it from the headset.

5. Remove the facial interface.
6. During reassembly, align the facial interface to the headset and use your fingers to press along the perimeter to clip it back in.

7. Use your fingers to grasp the right strap near the headset.
8. Peel the right strap away from the headset arm to unclip it.

9. Repeat the procedure to peel the left strap away from the arm to unclip it.

10. Separate the hook and loop strip on the top strap.

11. Unthread the top strap from its bracket.
12. Remove the head strap.

13. Use a Torx T2 driver to remove the six 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the eyepiece trim.

14. Insert an opening pick into the seam between the eyepiece trim and white outer shell, near the nose cutout.

15. Slide the opening pick to the right along the seam to release the clips securing the eyepiece trim.
16. Pry with the opening pick to release the clips securing the right side of the eyepiece trim.
17. Leave the opening pick in the seam to prevent the clips from reengaging.

18. Repeat the prying procedure along the left edge to release the clips securing the eyepiece trim.
19. During reassembly, press your fingers along the perimeter of the eyepiece trim to clip it back in place.

20. Don’t try to fully remove the eyepiece trim in this step. It’s still connected to the headset by a short cable.
21. Lift the eyepiece trim slightly and tilt it towards the top edge of the headset.
22. Set the trim down on your work surface, making sure not to strain the cable.

23. Use the point of a spudger to flip open the black lock tab on the ZIF connector securing the face sensor cable.

24. Use tweezers to pull the face sensor cable out of the ZIF connector.

25. Remove the eyepiece trim.

26. During reassembly:
27. Make sure the lens spacing matches the spacing indicator. This allows the indicator peg to sit correctly in its notch.
28. If the lens spacing doesn't match the indicator, manually adjust the lens with your fingers.

29. During reassembly, the face sensor cable can be tricky to connect. Follow these tips to connect the cable:
30. Thread your fingers through the eyepiece trim’s eyeholes and grasp the edges of the sensor cable.
31. Slide the sensor cable into the socket until the first set of tabs rests in the socket. This should flip the lock tab down partially.
32. Use a spudger to press the lock tab down towards the cable to lock it in place.

33. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 7.7 mm‑long screws securing the front cover to the headset:
34. One recessed in the top-left corner
35. One recessed in the top-right corner
36. Three along the lower edge

37. The front cover is still held in place by clips along the bottom and side edges.
38. Insert an opening pick into the seam between the bottom edge of the front cover and the headset.
39. Pry with the opening pick to release the front cover clips.

40. Slide the opening clip along the seam and pry to release all the clips securing the front cover.

41. Remove the front cover.

42. Use a pair of tweezers to grasp the metal neck of the top-right antenna cable.
43. Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.
44. Guide the antenna cable out of its metal clip holding it in place.

45. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the battery cable bracket:
46. One 4.4 mm‑long screw
47. Two 2.3 mm‑long screws

48. Use tweezers or your fingers to grasp the battery cable bracket.
49. Twist the cable bracket slightly so that its bottom left corner unclips from the motherboard.
50. Remove the battery cable bracket.

51. Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from the motherboard.
52. The battery press connector can disconnect accidentally during reassembly. Check this connector before you attach the bracket.

53. Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers under the metal neck of the black antenna cable near the fan assembly.
54. Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.
55. Guide the antenna cable out of its metal clip holding it in place.

56. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the antenna assembly to the headset:
57. Four 4.4 mm‑long screws
58. Two 4.8 mm‑long screws
59. Two 10.7 mm‑long screws

60. Use your fingers to flip up the antenna assembly enough to access the cable underneath it.

61. Use tweezers to unclip the antenna cable from its metal clip.

62. Remove the front antenna assembly.

63. Use tweezers to grab the fan connector and carefully slide it out of its socket.

64. Use the point of an opening pick to loosen the adhesive securing the LED flex cable from the top of the fan assembly.

65. Remove the two screws securing the fan assembly to the headset:
66. One 4.4 mm‑long Phillips screw
67. One 3.6 mm‑long Torx T2 screw

68. Lift the fan assembly and remove it.

69. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 2.3 mm‑long screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

70. Use your fingers to lift the heat sink and remove it.
71. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal since the midframe is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
72. You can reuse the thermal paste if you keep it clean. Otherwise, use a spudger to scrape off the old paste and apply a small amount of thermal putty or viscous thermal compound (such as K5 Pro) to the processor.

73. During reassembly, stop here and check if these twelve connectors are properly connected to the motherboard:
74. Two speaker connectors
75. Seven ZIF connectors
76. Two press connectors
77. One antenna connector
78. There are additional connectors on the motherboard, but they shouldn't be connected at this point.

79. Use tweezers to grip the left speaker cables at the base of their motherboard connector.
80. Lift the connector gently straight up to disconnect it.
81. During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to press the speaker cable into the rubber holding clip.

82. Repeat the disconnection procedure for the right speaker connector.
83. During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to press the speaker cable into the rubber holding clip.

84. Use tweezers to gently peel the black tape covering the two top flex cables.
85. Set the tape aside to be reused during reassembly.

86. Use a clean fingernail or a spudger to pry up the lock tab securing the top left camera cable.

87. Grasp the top left camera cable with tweezers and slide it out of its ZIF connector.

88. Move counter-clockwise around the motherboard and disconnect the remaining six ZIF connectors:
89. Power button and LED board
90. Bottom left camera
91. Bottom right camera
92. Top right camera
93. Face sensor interconnect cable
94. Indicator LED cable

95. Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable.

96. Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the USB‑C and headphone jack cable.

97. Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers under the metal neck of the side antenna cable.
98. Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.

99. Remove the five screws securing the motherboard to the headset:
100. Four 3.8 mm‑long Phillips screws
101. One 6 mm‑long 3.5 mm hex standoff screw

102. At this point, the motherboard should be loose, with some thermal paste sticking it to the headset.
103. Use a spudger to pry up and separate the motherboard from the headset.
104. If it feels like the motherboard is caught on something, check that all the cables are disconnected from it.

105. Remove the motherboard.
106. You can reuse the thermal paste if you keep it clean. Otherwise, use a spudger to scrape off the old paste and apply a small amount of thermal putty or viscous thermal compound (such as K5 Pro) to the processor.

107. Use your fingers or tweezers to peel and remove the two camera covers from the top cameras.
108. During reassembly, align the cutouts on the camera covers to their respective pegs on the headset.
109. The camera covers have different alignment cutouts and aren't interchangeable.

110. Peel and remove the black tape covering the antenna cable.
111. Set this tape aside to be reused during reassembly.

112. Use tweezers to lift and unclip the black antenna cable from the metal grounding clips.

113. Use a spudger to pry up the black lock tab securing the left microphone flex cable to the left interconnect cable.
114. Use your fingers or tweezers to slide the microphone cable out of the ZIF connector.

115. Repeat the procedure to disconnect the right microphone cable.

116. Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the battery flex cable to loosen the adhesive securing it from the headset.

117. Some interconnect cables have been removed in the following images for clarity purposes. You don't have to remove them as part of the procedure.
118. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the screen and lens assembly to the frame:
119. Two 6.5 mm‑long screws
120. Two 7.7 mm‑long screws

121. Grasp the screen and lens assembly with your fingers.
122. Slowly lift and separate the assembly from the outer shell, taking care to reposition any cables that get in the way.
123. Remove the screen and lens assembly.

124. During reassembly, be careful not to trap the twelve cables as you insert the lens assembly into the outer shell:
125. Three cables along the top edge—two flex cables and one LED flex cable
126. Two cables in the top right corner—the battery connector and an antenna cable
127. Two cables along the right edge—an antenna cable and a wide flex cable
128. Two flex cables along the bottom edge
129. Three cables along the left edge—one antenna cable, one flex cable, and one speaker cable
130. You can use a rubber band to help secure the cables out of the way.

131. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 4.5 mm‑long screws securing the power button and LED board to the outer shell.

132. Use your fingers or tweezers to remove the power button and LED board.
133. During reassembly, align the board using the two alignment pegs. The pegs have different diameters, so the board will align in only one orientation.