Logitech G502 Hero Side Buttons Board Replacement

ID: 170702

Description: Use this guide to replace the side buttons...

Before starting your repair, unplug the mouse.
Throughout your repair, it may be helpful to lay your mouse on a soft cloth to stabilize it and prevent damage while you work.

The feet are secured to the bottom of the mouse with adhesive. In order to cleanly remove them, the adhesive needs to be thoroughly heated.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the mouse feet for one minute to heat the adhesive.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer on the Low heat setting to soften the adhesive.
If you're using a hair dryer, only heat the feet a few seconds at a time or you may warp the plastic shell.

The feet have two layers—a rubberized one and an adhesive pad underneath.
If you're reusing the feet, be very careful not to separate the two layers or damage the feet.
Carefully slide the point of a spudger under the large foot near the front of the mouse, making sure it goes under both the foot and its adhesive pad.
The foot recesses have a small notch that makes it easier to slide your spudger under.
Gently slide the spudger farther under the foot and lift until you can grip the pad with your fingers.

Peel up and remove the foot.
If the rubber layer separates from its adhesive pad, use the same process to remove the pad.

Repeat the last three steps to remove the remaining feet.
If you're just removing the feet to open the mouse, you don't need to remove the two angled ones near the sensor or the larger one on the outer edge.

To install a new foot:
If any of the feet got damaged during removal or separated from their adhesive pads, replace them.
Use a spudger to carefully scrape up and remove any remaining adhesive bits.
Use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to thoroughly clean all adhesive residue from the foot recesses. Allow the surface to completely dry.
Remove the feet from their backing and firmly press them into place.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 5.5 mm‑long screws securing the bottom shell.

Tight plastic clips secure the top and bottom shells. During the next few steps you should feel and hear "clicks" as the clips release.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the top and bottom shells, near the back of the mouse.
Twist the spudger to unclip the shells.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the textured edge of the top and bottom shells, near the back of the mouse.
Slide the spudger towards the front of the mouse and intermittently twist, stopping near the screw hole.
Leave the spudger inserted for the next step.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the top and bottom shells, near the back of the mouse.
Slide the spudger towards the thumb rest and push in to unclip the shells.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the top and bottom shells, near the G8 and DPI shift (⊕) buttons at the front of the mouse.
Pry up with the spudger and push the shells apart to unclip them.
Unclipping this part of the mouse is tricky and may take a few tries. Be patient and don't pry too hard, or you may break one of the clips.

At this point, the shells should be fully separated. If they're not, repeat the previous unclipping steps with your spudger.
Lift the top shell straight up and remove it, making sure the main mouse cable stays attached to the bottom shell.
During reassembly, put the top shell back in place and work your way around the perimeter firmly squeezing the shells together to reengage the clips.

Hold the button board out of the way so you can access its connector on the motherboard.
Use the point of a spudger to push up on alternating sides of the connector's plastic latch until it's in the unlocked position.
You should feel the latch pop up into the unlocked position. Don't push too far, or the latch may come completely off the connector.

Gently pull the board straight up so the cable comes out of its socket.
The cable should come out easily. If you feel any resistance, push the latch up a little more and try again.
During reassembly:
Insert the cable into its socket so the blue tab is on the same side as the connector's latch.
Use the flat end of a spudger to push the latch straight down into its locked position.

If your replacement board doesn't come with a cable, follow this step to remove and transfer the old one.
Set the board down on a clean, ESD‑safe surface so the side with the cable is facing up.
Use the point of a spudger to lift the locking flap on the ZIF connector.
Pull the cable straight out of its socket.
When installing the cable into the ZIF connector, make sure the ridged side is facing up.

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