Kobo Clara Colour Motherboard Disconnection (Screen)

ID: 170874

Description: Prereq for disconnecting the motherboard for...

Steps:

1. Lay your eReader down so the back cover is facing up.
2. Insert the flat edge of an opening pick between the frame and the bottom left corner of the back cover.
3. Push the pick downwards at a slight angle until it slides under the back cover.

4. Slide the pick toward the bottom right corner to release the clips along the bottom edge.

5. Remove the pick and reinsert it under the bottom left corner.
6. Angle the pick flat under the back cover and rotate it around the bottom left corner to release its clips.
7. If you're having trouble, try twisting the pick to lift the corner clips out of their slots.

8. Slide the pick toward the top left corner to release the clips along the left edge.

9. At this point, you should be able to grip the back cover and release its remaining clips. If not, slide a pick under the perimeter of the back cover until you can grip an edge.
10. Grip the left edge of the back cover and lift it away from the eReader to release the remaining clips.
11. Remove the back cover.
12. During reassembly, align the back cover over the eReader and press along the perimeter until all its clips snap back into place.

13. The entire surface of the eReader's internals is covered in a thin, plastic-like waterproof coating. Keep the following in mind as you continue disassembly:
14. While this won't hurt your device, removing the coating compromises the device to potential water damage.
15. The coating is brittle and can flake into many small pieces. Heating the coating helps, but working with it is still a time-consuming process.
16. The ZIF connector locking tabs are coated in a gel that can jam the hinge and keep the locking tab from completely unlocking. Make sure the tabs are completely upright before disconnecting any cables.
17. Depending on your repair, you might have to remove the coating from ZIF connectors and their cables.

18. Heat an iOpener and lay it on the battery connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
19. Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

20. Use the tip of a spudger to scrape up the coating along the white battery connector head—enough so you can grab clumps of it with pointed tweezers.

21. Use pointed tweezers to peel off all of the coating around the battery connector head and its socket.
22. If the coating becomes too brittle and hard to peel off, reheat the connector and try again.
23. This is a meticulous process! Failure to remove enough of the coating could damage the plastic head during disconnection, so take your time!

24. Insert the point of a spudger under the edge of the battery connector head opposite of the cable.
25. There's a surface-mounted component close to the connector. Be careful not to touch it with your spudger!
26. Lift up the connector with the spudger to separate the rest of the coating and disconnect the battery.
27. During reassembly:
28. Inspect the connector head and its socket for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
29. Peel off the coating, heating the area when the coating becomes too brittle.
30. It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating so the connector head sits properly in its socket.

31. When working on or near the battery, don't use sharp metal tools to avoid puncturing and shorting the battery! A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and catch fire.
32. If your battery comes with stretch release adhesive, follow the next two steps to remove them.
33. Otherwise, skip ahead three steps to remove the normal adhesive.

34. The next two steps show how to remove a battery that's secured by stretch release adhesive.
35. Use tweezers to pull on the battery adhesive strip's pull tab until you can grip it with your fingers.
36. While holding the battery in place, pull the strip out slowly and steadily at a low angle. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
37. You can also wrap the adhesive strip around a spudger and "roll" it for a more consistent pull.
38. If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers and continue pulling—but don’t pry under the battery.
39. If you can't retrieve a strip, don't worry! Remove as much adhesive as possible and skip down two steps for an alternate method.

40. Lift the battery out of the frame and remove it.
41. If you're transferring the battery to a new screen, inspect the battery for any dents or deformations.
42. Never reuse a damaged battery! If your battery shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one.
43. During reassembly, follow this guide to install a new battery or to transfer an old battery to a new screen.

44. The next four steps show how to remove a battery that's secured by regular adhesive.
45. Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol under the right edge of the battery.
46. Tilt the eReader up to let the isopropyl alcohol flow under the battery and wait one minute for it to soften the adhesive.

47. Slide a plastic card a half an inch (~13 mm) under the top right corner of the battery.
48. Rotate the plastic card so its short edge sits under the right edge of the battery.

49. Slide the plastic card under the battery to separate the adhesive and the thin layer of coating.
50. Don't bend or crease the battery! Avoid prying or lifting up with the plastic card.
51. If you're having trouble, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.

52. Lift the battery off the frame and remove it.
53. If you're transferring the battery to a new screen, inspect the battery for any dents or deformations.
54. Never reuse a damaged battery! If your battery shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one.
55. During reassembly, follow this guide to install a new battery or to transfer an old battery to a new screen.

56. There are surface-mounted components next to the power button ZIF connector. Follow the instructions carefully to avoid dislodging them.
57. Insert the tip of a spudger under the right side of the power button ZIF connector's black locking tab.
58. Lift up the locking tab with the spudger to unlock it.
59. The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

60. Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
61. Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

62. Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
63. If the coating feels stubborn, reheat the connector and try again.
64. Gripping the tweezers closer to the tip can help you get a tighter hold on the cable.
65. Keep pulling on the cable until the cable comes completely out of its socket.
66. During reassembly:
67. Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
68. Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
69. It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

70. Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button board for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
71. Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

72. Peel off the coating along one of the long edges of the power button board.
73. The side doesn't matter! Choose whichever side has the easiest-to-remove coating.

74. Use the tip of a spudger to scrape the coating along the base of the power button board—enough so you can grab clumps of it with tweezers.
75. Don't use tweezers to scrape the coating, as you could accidentally puncture the board.

76. Use tweezers to peel off the coating on the power button board.
77. If the coating becomes too brittle and hard to peel off, reheat the board and try again.
78. It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating so the board can move freely during the next four steps.

79. The adhesive securing the power button board is strong and requires time and patience to separate properly. Follow the next four steps closely to avoid damaging the power button board.
80. Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button board for 90 seconds to soften the adhesive.
81. Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

82. Insert an arm of pointed tweezers under the edge of the power button board that you separated the coating from.
83. If you're having trouble, reheat the board and try again.
84. Slide the arm along the edge of the board to separate enough adhesive to fit an opening pick under the board.
85. Keep the arm as flat to the frame as possible to avoid scratching the metal.

86. Remove the tweezers and immediately replace it with the tip of an opening pick to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
87. Slide the pick along the edge of the power button board to separate the adhesive.

88. Rotate the opening pick under the bottom of the power button board and under its cable.
89. Slide the opening pick along the other edge of the board to separate the remaining adhesive.

90. Pull the power button board off the frame and remove it.
91. During reassembly, follow this guide to transfer your power button board to a new screen or to install a new one.

92. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the digitizer cable ZIF connector.
93. The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

94. Apply a heated iOpener to the digitizer cable ZIF connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
95. Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

96. Grip the digitizer cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
97. If the coating feels stubborn, reheat the connector and try again.
98. Keep pulling on the cable until it comes completely out of its socket.
99. During reassembly:
100. Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
101. Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
102. It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

103. There are surface-mounted components next to the display ZIF connector. Follow the instructions carefully to avoid dislodging them.
104. Insert the flat end of a spudger under the right side of the ZIF connector's black locking tab.
105. Lift up the locking tab with the spudger to unlock it.
106. The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

107. Apply a heated iOpener and lay it on the display connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
108. Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

109. Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the corner of the display cable closest to the charging port.
110. Pull the cable away from the ZIF connector slowly and steadily at a level angle to separate the coating at the corner.
111. If you're having trouble, try rocking the cable side-to-side while pulling.
112. Gripping the tweezers closer to the tip can help with getting a tighter hold on the cable.

113. Repeat the previous step for the other corner until the the cable comes completely out of its socket.

114. Lift up the display cable and peel off any remaining coating holding it to the motherboard.
115. During reassembly:
116. Inspect the ends of the cable and the ZIF connectors for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
117. Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
118. It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in the connector.

119. Lift the display cable out of the way of the backlight cable underneath.

120. Use the point of a spudger to lift up the blue locking tab on the backlight cable ZIF connector.
121. The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

122. Apply a heated iOpener and lay it on the backlight connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
123. Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

124. Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
125. If the coating feels stubborn, reheat the connector and try again.
126. Keep pulling on the cable until it comes completely out of its socket.
127. During reassembly:
128. Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
129. Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
130. It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.