How to Troubleshoot a GE Top Load Washing Machine Not Starting

ID: 181837

Description: [youtubevideo|zyMI3MP2WX0]Use this guide to...

Steps:

1. Ensure the dial is not stripped or cracked by rotating it and listening for a click.
2. Confirm that pressing the start button produces a click sound from the control board.
3. Examine the lid for any bulging or warping near the striker area.
4. Make sure the striker aligns correctly with the lid lock when the lid closes.
5. Check if the striker is seated flat against the lid and not bent or broken.
6. Look for clogged mesh filters in the water inlet valves at the back of the machine.
7. Verify that both hot and cold water supply hoses are providing adequate flow.
8. Remove any debris blocking the valves to ensure proper water supply.
9. Tilt the washer back carefully and look underneath or on the sides for a plastic pouch.
10. Retrieve the technician’s mini-manual for diagnostic codes and wiring schematics.
11. Use an online reference if you cannot find the original tech sheet.
12. Press and hold the start button for ten seconds, then release it to view error codes.
13. Observe which lights blink alongside pause and lid lock indicators to identify errors.
14. Press the start button repeatedly to cycle through stored codes.
15. Compare the light patterns to the tech sheet or an online resource for exact meaning.
16. Rotate the dial to exit error code mode after viewing the codes.
17. Press and hold the start button while turning the selector dial seven increments, then release it.
18. Listen for a click and flashing lights to confirm entry into the field service mode.
19. Turn the dial counterclockwise four clicks until only the sensing fill light is on.
20. Press and hold the start button for three seconds to delete stored error codes.
21. Re-run the machine to capture active codes only, aiding in accurate troubleshooting.
22. Rotate the dial past the error code deletion step to select agitate, spin, or lid lock tests.
23. Use these forced operations to confirm which component fails to function properly.
24. If a mode does not activate, the related part is likely defective.
25. Unplug the washing machine to avoid electrical hazards.
26. Move the unit away from the wall to access the rear panel.
27. Remove two 1/4 inch screws from each side of the top panel rear cover.
28. Slide the back metal housing to the right and pull it away to expose the control board.
29. Detach any cardboard or plastic flaps to access the board and the pressure hose.
30. Unplug the pressure hose from the board if you need to fully remove the console.
31. Remove two long screws on each rear corner to free the lid assembly from the chassis.
32. Snap the console forward and press down on two hidden front clips with a putty knife.
33. Lift the top upward to reveal the lid lock and its wiring harness.
34. Unplug the wiring harness from the lid lock if it is still connected.
35. Release the white plastic bezel by pressing the outside tabs and pushing it out.
36. Use a small screwdriver to press the lock’s top tab and slide the assembly left for removal.
37. Replace the striker if damaged by removing its two mounting screws on the lid.
38. Align any replacement striker so it fits into the same orientation as the old one.
39. Select a matching GE lid lock assembly if needed and ensure it aligns with the bezel.
40. Slide the new lid lock into the opening and secure it with a left-to-right motion.
41. Press the bezel back into place, aligning the guiding peg correctly.
42. Reconnect the lid lock wiring harness and make sure it is fully seated.
43. Close the top panel and press down on the front edge to engage the hidden clips.
44. Reinstall the capacitor, screws, and the back metal plate at the control area.
45. Verify the capacitor wires match their original orientation before closing.
46. Tilt or lay the washing machine on its back, ensuring the drain hose stays above the tub.
47. Support the machine so the lid does not slam open or shut unexpectedly.
48. Use a ratchet to remove the three bottom-cover screws and note the grounding strap.
49. Check the plastic cover for oil stains, belt debris, or broken tabs.
50. Rotate the pulleys by hand and pull the belt away to slip it off both pulleys.
51. Examine the belt for fraying, grease, or any other visible damage.
52. Clean or replace the belt if it shows signs of slipping or excessive wear.
53. Use a 15 mm socket and ratchet to loosen the pulley nut counterclockwise.
54. Pry the pulley off gently with a large screwdriver or a specialized puller tool.
55. Inspect the speed sensor for any belt debris or damage and unplug it if needed.
56. Remove the sensor by pressing the side tabs and sliding it off the motor housing.
57. Reconnect the sensor by aligning tabs, plugging the harness, and securing the red lock tab.
58. Loosen the pulley nut with a socket wrench and tap or pull the pulley off the shaft.
59. Unplug the shifter harness and remove two 3 8 inch screws holding it in place.
60. Support the assembly so the loaded spring does not pop out when the final screw is removed.
61. Check the clutch spring, plastic housing, and shifter assembly for damage or wear.
62. Verify the coil resistance with a multimeter according to the machine’s schematic.
63. Replace any defective parts and reassemble the shifter, spring, and clutch in reverse order.
64. Align the belt on the motor pulley and begin slipping it onto the transmission pulley.
65. Rotate the transmission pulley to help the belt slide fully into place.
66. Reattach the plastic bottom cover using three screws, including the grounding strap.
67. Set the washer upright and reconnect the power supply to confirm operation.