Why Won't My Frigidaire/Electrolux Dryer Get Hot: How to replace the heating element canister in your Frigidaire dryer

ID: 185565

Description: [youtubevideo|7JhJtb015QI]If your Frigidaire...

Steps:

  1. Loosen the single Phillips screw on the rear metal cover and remove the plate to expose the terminal block.
  2. Set a multimeter to AC volts and read center‑to‑left, center‑to‑right, and left‑to‑right; expect about 120 V, 120 V, and 208–240 V.
  3. Live 240 VAC is present during these checks; keep probes steady and hands clear of metal.
  4. If any reading is low or missing, repair the outlet, cord, or breaker before continuing.
  5. Remove the two rear Phillips screws securing the top panel.
  6. Slide the panel backward and lift it off the chassis.
  7. Retrieve the folded tech sheet stored under the top for later reference.
  8. Unscrew the two Phillips screws holding the interface bracket to the front bulkhead.
  9. Photograph the harness location, then unplug the interface connector.
  10. Removing the two retainer screws under the harness gives extra room but is optional.
  11. Open the door and remove the two Phillips screws that secure the lint filter housing to the front panel.
  12. Close the door and take out one Phillips screw near each lower corner of the front panel.
  13. Remove the two upper‑corner screws, supporting the panel as it loosens.
  14. Front panel can swing forward suddenly; keep a hand on it to prevent drops.
  15. Lift the front panel slightly, tilt it forward, and reach between panel and chassis.
  16. Press the latch and separate the door switch harness from the panel.
  17. Place the front panel aside in a safe location.
  18. Unplug the door light harness from the control board.
  19. Remove the two lower Phillips screws securing the bulkhead to the chassis.
  20. Pinch the plastic cable‑tie barbs with needle‑nose pliers and free the harness from the bulkhead.
  21. Lift the bulkhead tabs from the side slots and pull the assembly forward and out.
  22. Wear gloves, reach through the front opening, and locate the idler pulley on the right side behind the motor.
  23. Pull the idler arm to the left to relax the belt and slip the belt off the motor pulley.
  24. Use the belt as a handle to lift the drum upward and slide it out of the cabinet.
  25. Some models have a bulkhead cut‑out to ease removal; others require complete drum extraction.
  26. Insert a flexible vacuum hose into the lint duct and blower area to remove packed lint.
  27. If suction stalls, remove filter‑duct screws and pull the lint mass out by hand.
  28. Excess lint restricts airflow, overheats the dryer, and can trip safety fuses.
  29. Pull the two wires from the black blower thermistor and measure resistance; 50–55 kΩ at room temperature is correct.
  30. Replace the thermistor if the meter shows O.L. or a value outside range.
  31. Remove wires from the outlet thermal fuse and check continuity; a good fuse reads near 0 Ω.
  32. Replace the thermostat as well if this fuse is open because overheating likely occurred.
  33. Disconnect wires from the rear thermostat, center thermal fuse, and element terminals on the canister.
  34. Measure the thermostat and thermal fuse; each should read close to 0 Ω.
  35. Measure between the right‑side post and every left‑side post on a 3+1 element; 25–30 Ω indicates a healthy coil.
  36. Verify no continuity exists between any terminal and the metal canister shell.
  37. Two‑wire elements should measure about 10 Ω across their posts.
  38. Tag wire colors, then remove the two screws securing the canister feet to the cabinet floor.
  39. Use a stubby or angled Phillips driver to remove the small screw at the rear right side if present.
  40. Slide the canister forward and lift it clear of the chassis.
  41. Remove the two small screws securing the thermostat to the old canister and set the part aside.
  42. Remove the two screws securing the thermal fuse and lift it off.
  43. Lightly bend the front lip if needed and remove the two screws inside the rim to detach the faceplate.
  44. Seat the new element in the housing, align the feet, and reinstall the thermostat and fuse with their screws.
  45. Lower the reassembled canister into the cabinet so the feet drop into the floor slots and the rear collar seats in the bulkhead.
  46. Install the two foot screws and the rear screw to lock the unit.
  47. Reconnect each wire to its original terminal, matching colors to your photos.
  48. Secure the harness with a high‑temperature zip tie and route it away from sharp edges.
  49. Do not bend the element spades while attaching connectors; lengthen the harness instead.
  50. Place the drum through the front opening, resting the rear rim on the two back rollers.
  51. Loop the belt over the drum with ribs inward and the wear mark aligned with its original path.
  52. Reach under the drum, pull the idler arm left, route the belt around the motor pulley, then release the idler to tension the belt.
  53. Rotate the drum by hand to confirm the blower wheel turns smoothly and the belt tracks correctly.
  54. Lift the bulkhead into position, insert the four side tabs into cabinet slots, and seat the drum on the front rollers.
  55. Install the two lower bulkhead screws.
  56. Snap the door switch harness clip back into its hole and reconnect the switch to the control board.
  57. Reattach the control board cross plate with its two screws.
  58. Hang the front panel on its four chassis tabs and reconnect the door switch harness.
  59. Install the two upper corner screws, the two lint filter housing screws, and the two lower front screws.
  60. Engage the two plastic tabs on the interface, plug its harness into the control board, and secure the interface with its two screws.
  61. Reconnect power and run a timed‑dry cycle to confirm the element heats and the drum turns.
  62. Stop immediately if abnormal smells, sparks, or noises occur during the test.
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