Grill River PA4628-A Griddle doesn't heat up and the Thermostat lamp doesn't light.

ID: 192361

Description:

Steps:

  1. Grill River PA4628-A Grill with a common fault on this type appliance; it doesn't heat up and the neon lamp on the side of the thermostat doesn't light.
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  2. The problem is in the THERMAL PROTECTION FUSE, of the thermostat plug-in assembly (or box), we could measure voltage output, but it isn't necessary, since by NOT turning on the neon pilot lamp, it already gives us a clear indication that there is no voltage output.
  3. So I proceed to dismantle the thermostat box that has 5 triangular safety screws installed.
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  4. If we have the IFIXIT tool kit, we will use the triangular tip no. 2.
  5. Pro Tech Go Toolkit (Original linked product unavailable)
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  6. Disassembling the lid, we see that the interior is quite simple:
  7. Yellow Arrow: Power input lead.
  8. Red Arrow: Thermal fuse, hidden inside the thermal-protective-fabric tube, (This is the culprit in our fault) said fuse, is in series with the Blue Input - Output lead.
  9. Green Arrow: Adjustable thermostat, is in series with the Brown input-output lead.
  10. Blue Arrow: Neon lamp in parallel with the 2 output leads
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  11. Close-up view of the thermal fuse sheathed in it's white thermal-protective fabic sheath.
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  12. Procedure for checking the thermal fuse, CONTINUITY MEASUREMENT
  13. On the Multi-meter we select OHMs, or "Beep, or the lowest measurement scale.
  14. Before taking a measurement, it is mandatory we check the multi-meter. We will check it by bringing the 2 test leads into contact with one another. The multi-meter (should) give a measurement of 000 or close to this value. In my case it also beeps when set to this (continuity) function, indicating that it is working correctly.
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  15. Having done in step 6 the operational check of the meter, we can now perform tests. The first one will be checking the lead from the plug to the outlet to ensure the wire that passes through the thermostat, is in fact, OK.
  16. Ruled out the Brown lead and thermostat, they test OK.
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  17. Now we check the Blue wire or lead, the other prong of the electrical plug, we measure between it and the outlet. This is the one that passes via the Thermal fuse.
  18. Upon testing we find there is NO READING (and no continuity beep) = THERMAL FUSE OPEN, FAULTY.
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  19. Now that we have located and determined that the problem is the thermal fuse, Remove it. It's terminals are clamped with pliers; they can be opened and separated with fine-nose pliers.
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  20. Views of the faulty thermal fuse or blown fuse, its value is 16A 250V temperature 117ºC
  21. For the spare part, ideally we should use one of the same value, if we don;t have that, the rule is that it have the same amperes and a slightly higher temperature, or that it has a higher amperage and a higher temperature, NEVER LOWER TEMPERATURE.
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  22. To separate the thermal fuse from the crimped wire, we can use fine-nose electronics pliers, "biting" the center until we can open the crimp.
  23. We looked for an adequate replacement; this one had 16A, but with a higher temperature of 192ºC. (from 117 to 192º the difference is quite high, but I didn't have another spare at the time).
  24. We cut the replacement to the same length as the original.
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  25. We crimp the part with flat nose pliers. If we can't make good contact, on this side the farthest from the grill, we can give it a small bit of solder with tin, if we do it quickly, (Otherwise you can burn yourself, I mention it in step 14).
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  26. I tried to re-crimp the end of the terminal, like the original part was, but it wasn't feasible to secure it like that, the thermal fuse came loose from the re-crimped connection, Photo 3, so it is time to change the procedure.
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  27. The far end of the thermal fuse of this grill, which has come loose, I re-clamp it and decide to give it a light bit of soldering so that it holds. BEWARE It is not the most appropriate, but given the difficulty of, for example, placing a mini splice connector (mini power strip) due to the small space available, I think it is the best option.
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  28. Once the thermal fuse is secured on the right side, I replace the thermal protective fabric sheath and it is time to re-crimp the left side, (having undone it so as to free up space).
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  29. The wires are replaced; By pushing on it, I tried to give greater separation between the thermal fuse and the thermostat, so that it overheats less and does not blow prematurely.
  30. Since I soldered it, the thermal fuse has been heated, I check with a multi-meter set for ohms. That said the fuse is ok and has not blown.
  31. Video explaining the fault:
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  32. Once I have verified that there is continuity between input and output, I replace the cover and check it.
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  33. View of the thermostat and of the thermal fuse causing the problem.
  34. END of the Guide.
  35. Other guides dedicated to a compilation of thermal fuse breakdowns:
  36. Various methods of replacing the Thermal Fuse or Thermo Fuse. Air Fryer - Coffee makers - etc
  37. Compilation of Calderín thermal fuse values, used Appliances.
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