Razer Leviathan V2 X Disassembly Guide

ID: 193898

Description: Repairability rating 8/10. Easy for beginners,...

Using a flat metal "Jimmy" tool, gently work out the front metal screen and mesh.
Insert the tool vertically ~3-5mm (~1/8-1/4in), then pry gently away from the mesh screen. The screen should slowly start to come out directly vertical.
Repeat this every few cms/inches, working in a loop around the outside edge one or two times until you get the metal/mesh screen off.
On the bottom of the metal/mesh screen there are 12 protruding plastic tabs that are inserted ~2cm into the body of the speaker.
It should come directly vertically up with very little to no pressure if you get the tool angle just right. Be patient, and work slowly.

Use a Philips #2 screwdriver to remove the ten 14 mm-long screws mounting the inner frame to the body.
Note: There are helpful plus sign/star symbols next to each hole that has a screw in it! See the third image, they look similar to this: ✦

Use a Philips #2 screwdriver to remove the eight 14 mm-long screws holding in the two speakers.
These screws are the same size as the screws from the previous step

Slip the plastic cover downward off the connector
Use metal tweezers or a tiny driver bit to press down the tab in the center of the connector.
Gently pull downward on the connector to disconnect it from the body.

Pull on each side of the inner plastic frame vertically to slide it out of the body.
If you have to apply force, first re-verify that you have removed all 18 screws from Steps 2 and 3.
You can use the speaker holes as handles to grip the frame.

Remove the 4 sticky screw covers from the bottom of the speaker
Tip: Place these on clean plastic or wax paper and you will be able to easily reuse them, but we suggest tossing them and showing off the screws after reassembly!
Use a Knife to cut through the sticker to reveal two more hidden screws. See image #3

Use a Philips #2 screwdriver to remove the six 10 mm-long screws holding the bottom cover in place

Use the Jimmy tool to remove the bottom cover, again working slowly around outside of the part. It should come off with little force needed.
If you have to use force to remove bottom cover, re-verify you have removed all six of the screws!

Use a Philips #1 screwdriver to remove the four 8 mm-long screws holding in the RGB diffuser and board
Note: For this step you need a smaller screwdriver than all of the other steps.
Slip Jimmy tool between the light bar diffuser and PCB then lift gently upward, then remove the light bar diffuser and set aside

Gently pry the RGB board free using the jimmy tool and lift it upwards and away from the bottom.
Warning: The RGB Board has a connector on the bottom side, be gentle as you pull upwards!
Disconnect: Using a tool or your fingers, unplug the connector on the RGB board, then set it aside

Use a Philips #2 screwdriver to remove the two 14 mm-long screws holding in the main board.

Pull on the cable for the RGB board and move it to the side to expose the bracket
Use a Philips #2 screwdriver to remove the single 10 mm-long screw holding the USB-C bracket in place
Note: This screw is the same size as the six screws for the bottom cover.
Lift and remove plastic bracket covering USB-C Port

Slip the speaker cables from their wedged positions and remove the white polyester batting that was behind the two speakers
Reminder: Leave the foam insulation around the speaker wires, it is there to dampen vibrations and keep the speaker sounding clean.

Be careful to not damage/bend the USB-C port!
Firmly grasp the main board with your fingers and gently wiggle back and forth while pulling the board firmly outward.
Additionally pull at a slight angle downward and away from the buttons to help dislodge the USB-C port.
The USB-C port is still embedded in the outer frame of the speaker. The intent of this wiggling is to free the USB-C port from the frame of the speaker. This is the only thing still holding the main board in place.
Continue this wiggling motion until you have gently worked the board out of it's place.
Note: The main board is pretty wedged in there, so it does take some force to remove. Just be patient, go slow, and it will all be okay.

Follow this guide in reverse to reassemble your device, paying attention to the screw sizing and placement.
The two rubber "Passive Radiators" on the back of the speaker body are fused to the housing and do not seem removable. If you find a safe way to remove and reattach these, please leave a comment or update this guide.

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