How to Fix a Whirlpool or Maytag Washing Machine That Makes Noise Draining and Won't Stop

ID: 206249

Description: [youtubevideo|xMLstFmEmY0]A washer that starts...

Steps:

  1. Plug the washer into an outlet with no cycle selected and listen for a continuous pump noise.
  2. The nonstop noise means the control thinks the tub is flooded and has forced the drain pump on.
  3. Press and hold the Pause / Cancel button until the pump stops and the console lights go out.
  4. If the pump restarts or a new drain pump did not solve the issue, the pressure circuit needs service.
  5. Set aside a Torx T15 screwdriver, a flat putty knife, a plastic pipette and high-purity isopropyl alcohol or electronic contact cleaner.
  6. Have an electric toothbrush or short length of clear tubing ready to move solvent through the sensor.
  7. Work in a ventilated area and keep solvents away from open flames.
  8. Remove the two Torx screws securing the lid striker to the underside of the lid.
  9. Slide the striker out and gently insert it into the lid-lock slot with its head facing the front of the machine.
  10. This bypass keeps the lock satisfied so you can watch water levels during later tests.
  11. Open the lid and locate the serial label on the back-right rim of the tub opening.
  12. If the serial begins with CC, CD, MC or MD, Whirlpool may replace the control board under service bulletin S153EB.
  13. Contact Whirlpool before proceeding if your machine qualifies for the special policy.
  14. Unplug the washer to eliminate electrical hazard.
  15. Insert a putty knife at the left clip between the console and top panel, push rearward and lift to release the clip.
  16. Repeat at the right clip, then roll the console forward onto the top to expose the control board assembly.
  17. Locate the small clear hose on the center of the control board and pull it straight off the port without twisting.
  18. Fill a pipette with isopropyl alcohol or contact cleaner.
  19. Press the pipette tip firmly against the port and slowly inject solvent until the cavity is full.
  20. Allow the liquid to flow back out, carrying any moisture or debris with it.
  21. Sealing the gap around the tip with a finger improves flow through the diaphragm.
  22. With solvent still present, press an electric toothbrush against the sensor body for about twenty seconds to vibrate the diaphragm.
  23. Alternatively, attach a short piece of tubing and gently move solvent in and out by mouth, taking care not to inhale fumes.
  24. Shake out excess solvent, push the pressure hose back onto the port and rest the console in position without latching it.
  25. Plug the washer back in and confirm the drain pump remains off.
  26. Start a normal wash cycle with the lid open and ensure the tub stops filling at the usual low level.
  27. If water rises unusually high, stop the cycle immediately and disconnect power.
  28. Verify the clear hose is dry, free of kinks and that the internal green tracer string is intact.
  29. Blow gently from the board end toward the tub to confirm the path is unobstructed and airtight.
  30. Disconnect power and label the seven wiring harnesses attached to the board.
  31. Depress each locking tab and detach the harnesses from the board.
  32. Remove the two quarter-inch screws or release the retaining fingers to free the board from its housing.
  33. Fit the replacement board, secure it, and reconnect every harness in its original location.
  34. Follow the manufacturer instructions to run the factory calibration after installation.
  35. Roll the console back into place and press downward until both side clips engage.
  36. Remove the striker from the lock and reinstall it on the lid with the two Torx screws.
  37. Run several complete cycles to verify the washer fills, washes, drains and spins without unexpected pump activity.
  38. The repair is successful when the machine operates for multiple days with normal water levels.
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