Frigidaire French Door Refrigerator Ice Maker Repair

ID: 207214

Description: [youtubevideo|1Z-9qwMmlGc]Use this guide to...

Steps:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and move it forward for rear access.
2. Remove all food and the ice bucket to prevent spills and lighten the doors.
3. Wear cut-resistant gloves and safety glasses throughout the repair.
4. Inspect the ice bucket area for frost buildup, jammed cubes, or a stuck bucket.
5. Frost on the rear panel or a bucket that will not budge indicates the evaporator and air-handler are frozen.
6. Press and hold the two right-side display buttons for about 12 s until the fans stop and DF appears.
7. Allow the cycle to run until the compartment is ice-free or for at least 20 min.
8. Hold the same buttons for 10 s to exit DF and restore normal operation.
9. Insert a garment steamer nozzle into the dispenser chute and trigger steam to melt blockages.
10. If using a hair dryer, set it to the coolest airflow to avoid warping the liner.
11. Never use a high-heat gun inside the cabinet.
12. If ice returns within days, proceed with the full air-handler and ice maker repair kit.
13. Order the OEM kit 5303918784 and a replacement ice maker 243297613 if yours is cracked.
14. Remove two Phillips/¼ in screws from the plastic façade and lift it off.
15. Undo the left ¼ in screw that anchors the ice maker to the cabinet.
16. Remove the single ¼ in screw securing the wire cover on top.
17. Press the locking tabs and separate the two wire connectors inside the compartment.
18. Cut the factory cable ties carefully with side snips without nicking the wires.
19. Pull the rigid upper chassis toward you; the tray section will follow.
20. Support the assembly—plastic parts flex easily.
21. Take out the two ¼ in screws in the cabinet ceiling.
22. Guide the two loose harnesses through the small hole as you slide the box forward.
23. Keep the rear harness clear so it does not snag.
24. Remove the hard-to-reach ¼ in screw in the upper left using a 12 in extension.
25. Remove the two ¼ in screws on the right side.
26. Hold the eight-pound handler with your free hand as the last screw comes out.
27. Depress the harness tab on the left and unplug the handler.
28. If ice remains, steam or fan-thaw before pulling to avoid coil damage.
29. Press the plastic harness clip and slide the cover downward.
30. Do not force the panel; thaw any frozen coils first.
31. Flush the drain trough with warm water to confirm flow.
32. Check the defrost sensor for swelling; replace if swollen or open-circuit at 0 °C.
33. Ensure the repair kit includes new housing, fan gaskets, foil tape, and revised fill tube.
34. Compare parts to the service bulletin before proceeding.
35. Hold a screwdriver between the fork tines and tap the handle counter-clockwise to loosen the countersunk screw.
36. Use penetrating oil if the fork is rusted.
37. Remove three ¼ in motor screws—keep a hand under the motor so it doesn’t drop.
38. Press the rubber grommet inward and pull the wire trunk free of the case.
39. Gently pry the fan out of its frame; the blades and supports are fragile.
40. Remove the white bucket glide by taking out its small Phillips screw.
41. Unscrew the two ¼ in screws and lift out the solenoid.
42. Feed the wire trunk through the molded channel before adding components.
43. If space is tight, disconnect the motor leads temporarily.
44. Slide the solenoid bracket onto the handler fingers and secure with two screws.
45. Connect the two spade wires; orientation does not matter.
46. Seat the motor shaft through the front hole and loosely start all three screws.
47. Tighten each screw gradually so the holes stay aligned.
48. Reinstall the plastic glide and its screw at the bottom of the chute.
49. Stretch the silicone gasket over the fan corners without bending blades.
50. Snap the gasket and fan into the black foam frame, label facing front.
51. Route the fan wire through the side channel.
52. Thread the fork clockwise onto the shaft and lock it with a screwdriver-and-hammer tap.
53. Rotate the wire-holder into the metal evaporator cover and snap it in.
54. Press the two cover halves together, then wrap foil tape lengthwise over both sides, leaving the drain opening clear.
55. Scrape off old foam and tape with a putty knife.
56. Apply the square foam gasket to the ceiling opening and cover exposed seams with foil tape to block moisture.
57. Verify the gray foam gasket sits flat around the housing; adjust any rolled edges.
58. Tape over the three shelf-slot openings with foil tape.
59. Lift the cover assembly high, align the V-notch with the drain, then press the two metal fingers outward to clamp onto the coil.
60. Seat the drain spout in the rear hole and plug in the handler harness.
61. Pivot the housing upward against the evaporator and hold it.
62. Install the two right screws, then tape the left screw to a driver bit and secure the upper-left hole.
63. Behind the fridge, press the collar and pull the old green tube from the connector.
64. Remove the rubber stopper at the front and withdraw the line.
65. Lubricate the new tube with dish soap, feed it from the ceiling hole, then pull it through at the rear and reinsert into the push-fit connector.
66. Guide the harnesses so they are not pinched and slide the box fully home.
67. Tap the box lightly with a plastic hammer if the rear gasket resists, then install the two top screws.
68. Feed the harness through the new ice maker and rest it on the four metal posts.
69. Push rearward until it clicks; avoid pressing directly on the tray.
70. Connect the two harness plugs and reinstall the wire cover and façade with three screws.
71. Apply a thin bead of food-grade RTV around the ice box seams and let it cure per label directions.
72. Plug the refrigerator back in and set the controls to normal.
73. Wait 24 h to confirm the bucket fills and no frost returns.