How to Troubleshoot Frigidaire Dryer Noises

ID: 207227

Description: [youtubevideo|QydJ25pGA2w]Your Frigidaire...

Steps:

1. Collect a Phillips head screwdriver, drill driver, 14 mm socket and ratchet, 14 mm wrench, quarter-inch hex key, thin flathead screwdriver, vacuum with flexible hose, needle-nose pliers, and work gloves.
2. Using a drill driver speeds removal of the many screws on this dryer.
3. Pull the dryer forward enough to reach the rear of the top panel.
4. Remove the two Phillips screws at the back edge of the top, slide the panel backward, and lift it away.
5. Look under the top for the folded service manual for future reference.
6. Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet to eliminate electrical shock risk.
7. Remove the two Phillips screws holding the control interface to the bulkhead.
8. Free the wiring bracket if needed, photograph the ribbon location, and unplug the interface harness from the control board.
9. Frigidaire harness plugs will fit several board sockets, so photos prevent mistakes during reassembly.
10. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the electronic control board plate and set the assembly aside inside the cabinet.
11. Open the door and remove the two Phillips screws that tie the front panel to the gray bulkhead.
12. Remove the two distinctive Phillips screws that secure the lint filter housing inside the opening.
13. Close the door and remove one Phillips screw from the lower edge of each front corner.
14. If the dryer sits on a pedestal, expect awkward angles when removing the bottom screws.
15. Remove the left and right Phillips screws at the top corners of the front panel.
16. Support the panel, lift it upward to clear the lower tabs, and pull it slightly forward.
17. Reach between the panel and cabinet, unplug the door-switch harness, and set the panel aside.
18. The panel can fall when the last screw is removed, so keep one hand on it.
19. Remove the two Phillips screws from the lower edge of the front bulkhead.
20. Lift the bulkhead to free its four locating tabs and move it forward from the chassis.
21. Squeeze the barbed cable-tie with needle-nose pliers and release the door-switch harness from the bulkhead.
22. Place the bulkhead aside or stand it beside the machine without stressing wires.
23. Wear gloves to protect against sharp internal sheet-metal edges.
24. Reach to the right side, pull the idler arm leftward to release belt tension, and slip the belt off the motor pulley.
25. Lift the drum using the belt as a handle and guide it out of the cabinet, clearing the rear rollers.
26. Some models have center cutouts in the bulkhead that ease drum removal.
27. Spin the idler pulley and listen for squeaks or grinding.
28. Inspect the plastic rim for cracks and ensure no lint binds between the wheel and arm.
29. Replace the entire idler arm assembly if the wheel wobbles or fails to turn freely.
30. Rotate the blower wheel to verify smooth, silent movement and intact fins.
31. Vacuum visible lint and any objects lodged in the housing or rear duct.
32. Spin the motor shaft by hand; bearing noise indicates the motor must be replaced.
33. The blower is supplied as a complete unit, so severe damage requires full replacement.
34. Spin each of the five drum rollers and feel for flats, wobble, or binding.
35. Check the rubber tread for flat spots and inspect the white hubs for deformation.
36. Confirm the shafts are smooth and free of grooves or corrosion.
37. Vacuum lint from the chassis while you work.
38. Examine the drive belt for frayed edges, missing ribs, or glazing.
39. Inspect the felt seals and bulkhead lip for separation or wear.
40. Look for cracks, dents, or rust in the drum cylinder.
41. Replacing the drum or bulkhead is often cost-prohibitive if damage is found.
42. Vacuum the filter housing and internal duct with a flexible hose to remove compacted lint.
43. Removing the two internal housing screws lets you access the duct without full disassembly.
44. Excess lint can produce whistling or rumbling sounds by restricting airflow.
45. Place a quarter-inch hex key into the shaft head from the front of the roller.
46. Hold the key steady and loosen the rear 14 mm nut with a socket or wrench.
47. Slide the nut, shaft, spacer, and roller away from the bulkhead.
48. A kit containing five rollers, shafts, belt, and idler is available if several parts are worn.
49. Insert the new shaft through the bulkhead, gray spacer, and blue roller.
50. Hold the shaft with a 14 mm socket on the front and tighten the rear 14 mm nut until the roller spins freely.
51. If the roller drags, loosen and retighten until free rotation is achieved.
52. Slip a thin flathead screwdriver under the triangular clip and pry it off the shaft.
53. Remove the roller, clean or refinish the shaft, or install a new OEM roller.
54. Blue rollers cannot be used on the original Frigidaire shafts.
55. Remove the five screws securing the rear upper access cover and lay it on the dryer top.
56. Remove all perimeter rear-panel screws, leaving the two center screws until last for support.
57. Lift the rear panel off to expose the three rear rollers.
58. Replace each rear roller assembly using the quarter-inch hex key and 14 mm tools.
59. Reinstall the rear panel beginning with the two center screws followed by the perimeter screws.
60. Position the upper access cover and secure its five screws.
61. If the top screws do not align, start the rear screws first to draw the cover into place.
62. Verify the idler pulley spring is attached and the pulley turns smoothly.
63. Guide the drum onto the rear rollers with the wear ridge toward the back.
64. Loop the belt ribs inward around the drum, pull the idler left, and seat the belt around the motor pulley and idler.
65. Rotate the drum by hand to confirm the belt tracks and spins the blower wheel without noise.
66. Align the bulkhead tabs with the cabinet slots and seat the lip onto the new front rollers.
67. Install the two lower Phillips screws to lock the bulkhead to the chassis.
68. Snap the door-switch harness clip into the bulkhead and reconnect the door-light switch to the control board.
69. Turning the drum helps the lip settle evenly on the rollers.
70. Plug the door switch harness into the front panel, hang the panel on its four tabs, and secure the two upper screws.
71. Open the door and reinstall the two long lint-housing screws, then close the door.
72. Reconnect the interface ribbon to the control board, seat the interface, and install its two screws.
73. Fasten the control board bracket with its two Phillips screws.
74. Slide the top panel forward into position and reinstall its two rear screws.
75. Reconnect power and run a timed-dry cycle, listening for any remaining abnormal sounds.
76. Reopen the cabinet if noise persists and re-check the inspection points.