Electrolux French-Door Refrigerator Ice Maker Repair

ID: 207235

Description: [youtubevideo|1Z-9qwMmlGc]Use this guide to...

Steps:

  1. Check for little or no ice production and excessive frost around the upper ice bucket.
  2. Attempt to remove the bucket; binding or total blockage indicates a frozen icemaker cavity.
  3. Press and hold the two right-hand control-panel buttons for about 12 seconds until fans stop and DF appears.
  4. Hold the same buttons roughly 10 seconds to exit forced-defrost mode when thawing is complete.
  5. Insert a garment steamer through the ice dispenser opening and apply steam until ice blockage melts.
  6. Avoid heat guns or high-heat hair dryers that can warp interior plastic.
  7. A compact steam-shot tool works well and is inexpensive.
  8. If ice flow resumes but frost rapidly reappears, proceed with the full repair kit installation.
  9. Remove the two quarter-inch screws on the icemaker façade using a hex driver or drill.
  10. Lift the façade upward and pull it out to reveal the chassis.
  11. Remove the left-side quarter-inch screw from the icemaker chassis.
  12. Back out the screw securing the plastic wire cover, then pull the cover down and away from its rear tabs.
  13. Press the clips and separate the two internal harness connectors.
  14. Expect stiff tabs on older units; steady pressure may be required.
  15. Press the housing tab and pull the upper chassis toward you, supporting the flimsy ice-tray section.
  16. Cut the cable ties on the right-side wire trunk with side cutters without nicking the wires.
  17. Remove the two front quarter-inch screws that anchor the ice box.
  18. Guide both loose harnesses through the top opening while sliding the box straight out, keeping the rear harness clear.
  19. Remove the upper-left quarter-inch screw with a 12 inch extension and keep a hand under the handler to catch it.
  20. Remove the two right-hand screws while supporting the eight-pound handler.
  21. Disconnect the left-side harness to separate the handler from the cabinet.
  22. If the handler is iced in, thaw with a garment steamer, box fan, or a hair dryer on minimal heat before pulling it free.
  23. Depress the cover’s harness tab and push the harness rearward to unclip it.
  24. Slide the cover downward; thaw the coils first if ice blocks removal.
  25. Ensure the drain trough is clear; flush with warm water if plugged.
  26. Look for rust or soggy foam behind the panel and address any moisture damage.
  27. Check the defrost sensor for swelling; replace if deformed or if it fails continuity when ice-cold.
  28. Loosen the auger fork with a screwdriver and hammer, then unscrew it counter-clockwise.
  29. Remove the three quarter-inch screws and lift the auger motor while supporting it.
  30. Pop the grommet and slide the wire trunk from the housing.
  31. Disconnect fan, solenoid, and motor wires, then pry the fragile fan out carefully.
  32. Remove the bucket glide screw and lift the glide, then unscrew and pull out the solenoid.
  33. Thread the wire trunk through the new channel before adding parts.
  34. Slide the solenoid into its rails, secure with two screws, and attach either harness wire.
  35. Seat the auger motor, align the three holes, and tighten the screws evenly.
  36. Install the bucket glide and its screw.
  37. Fit the fan into the silicone gasket, then press the assembly into the handler with the harness in its notch.
  38. Press the gray perimeter gasket firmly around all handler edges, correcting any rolls or gaps.
  39. Cover the exposed auger-motor screws with the black foam strip to block air leaks.
  40. Wrap metal tape along both sides and lower angles of the metal clamshell, leaving the drain path clear.
  41. Apply the square foam gasket to the cleaned ice-box ceiling and reinforce adjacent areas with metal tape.
  42. Remove damaged rear foam and scrape residue with a putty knife for a clean seal.
  43. Inspect the handler’s edge gasket and press it flat to eliminate every potential air gap.
  44. Tape over the three shelf-bracket slots, then lift the cover onto the coils, centering the V-notch over the drain.
  45. Push the two metal tabs inward to lock the cover and snap the harness into the plastic holder.
  46. Secure any loose wires with leftover metal tape so they clear the gasket.
  47. Seat the handler’s drain tube in the rear cabinet drain and plug in its harness.
  48. Pivot the handler against the cover and drive the two right screws and the upper-left screw, taping the left screw to the bit to avoid drops.
  49. Press the rear push-fit collar and pull the old green line free.
  50. Pull the rubber stopper from inside the compartment to remove the tubing.
  51. Soap the new line, feed it through the upper hole, pull excess from the rear, and lock it into the push-fit connector.
  52. Slide the ice box onto the handler while guiding the top and rear harnesses clear of pinch points.
  53. Tap the box with a plastic hammer until the screws align, then install the two front screws.
  54. Route the harness through the new icemaker frame; wire ties are unnecessary with the revised design.
  55. Set the icemaker on the four mounting posts and push rearward until it clicks.
  56. Connect both harness plugs; sizes prevent mis-match.
  57. Hook the wire cover tabs, pivot the cover, and secure its screw.
  58. Align the façade, press upward, and reinstall its two screws.
  59. Slide the bucket fully into position to finish cabinet reassembly.
  60. Run a thin bead of food-grade RTV along every cabinet seam to block future moisture intrusion.
  61. Restore power and monitor ice production; the repair kit and sealing should eliminate recurring frost and dispensing failures.
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