How to Troubleshoot No Start in a Brown Top Kenmore Dryer

ID: 221216

Description: [youtubevideo|VjVywwEG7VU]Use this guide to...

Steps:

  1. Gather a multimeter, Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, 1/4 inch nut driver, and 5/16 inch nut driver before you start.
  2. Unplug the dryer before opening panels or testing continuity.
  3. A 240 V dryer circuit can cause serious injury, so do live-voltage tests only if you are comfortable using a multimeter on mains power.
  4. Set the multimeter to AC volts for outlet and terminal-block voltage tests.
  5. Set the multimeter to ohms only for switch and fuse tests while the dryer is unplugged.
  6. Call an electrician if you find a breaker, outlet, or house-wiring problem.
  7. Find the dryer breaker in the electrical panel.
  8. Turn the breaker off, then turn it back on to reset it.
  9. Try to start the dryer again.
  10. If the dryer starts, the breaker may be weak and should be replaced by an experienced person or electrician.
  11. If the dryer still does not start, check whether it is receiving the correct voltage.
  12. Turn the dryer around to access the terminal block where the power cord connects.
  13. If a cover blocks the terminal block, unplug the dryer, remove the cover, and plug the dryer back in only for the voltage readings.
  14. Measure from the left screw to the center screw and look for about 120 V AC.
  15. Measure from the center screw to the right screw and look for about 120 V AC.
  16. Measure across the two outside screws and look for about 240 V AC.
  17. If all three readings are present, the dryer is receiving proper power.
  18. If any reading is missing, troubleshoot the power cord and outlet before testing dryer parts.
  19. Unplug the dryer before touching the cord or terminal block.
  20. Inspect the cord terminals for burned metal, melted plastic, or other heat damage.
  21. Do not use the dryer with a damaged power cord.
  22. Replace the power cord if it looks damaged, then try the dryer again.
  23. If the cord looks fine, compare the outlet readings with the terminal-block readings.
  24. Set the multimeter to AC volts and keep your fingers away from the probe tips.
  25. Identify the two flat hot slots, the neutral slot, and the ground slot.
  26. Measure from neutral to one flat hot slot and look for about 120 V AC.
  27. Measure from neutral to the other flat hot slot and look for about 120 V AC.
  28. Measure from ground to each flat hot slot and look for about 120 V AC on both readings.
  29. Measure across the two flat hot slots and look for about 240 V AC.
  30. Those readings confirm a good four-prong dryer outlet.
  31. Set the multimeter to AC volts and keep your fingers away from the probe tips.
  32. Identify the two flat hot terminals and the neutral terminal.
  33. Measure across the two flat hot terminals and look for about 240 V AC.
  34. Measure from neutral to one flat hot terminal and look for about 120 V AC.
  35. Measure from neutral to the other flat hot terminal and look for about 120 V AC.
  36. Those readings confirm a good three-prong dryer outlet.
  37. Compare the outlet readings with the voltage readings at the dryer terminal block.
  38. If the outlet has proper voltage but the terminal block does not, replace the power cord.
  39. If the outlet does not have proper voltage, stop troubleshooting the dryer.
  40. Have an electrician or someone experienced with breaker panels troubleshoot the breaker, outlet, or house wiring.
  41. If the terminal block has proper voltage, unplug the dryer and continue with component tests.
  42. Unplug the dryer from the wall.
  43. Pull the lint filter out of the top panel.
  44. Remove the two screws under the lint-filter opening with a Phillips screwdriver.
  45. Pull the top forward and lift it open.
  46. Use the flathead tip on a 6-in-1 screwdriver only if you need gentle help lifting the panel.
  47. Check that the dryer belt is intact.
  48. A broken belt can stop some dryers from starting if they use a broken-belt switch.
  49. Keep the dryer unplugged and set the multimeter to ohms.
  50. Connect the multimeter leads to both sides of the door switch.
  51. Press the door switch in as if the door were closed.
  52. A good door switch reads about 0.1 ohm or shows continuity while pressed.
  53. A good door switch reads OL when released.
  54. If the switch reads OL while pressed, replace the door switch.
  55. Keep the dryer unplugged and turn it around to access the rear panel.
  56. Remove the matching rear-panel screws with a 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch nut driver.
  57. Remove the rear panel and locate the thermal fuse on the back of the dryer.
  58. Pull the two wires off the thermal-fuse terminals.
  59. Grip the metal connectors instead of pulling on the wires.
  60. Set the multimeter to ohms.
  61. Touch one multimeter lead to each thermal-fuse terminal.
  62. A good thermal fuse reads about 0.1 ohm or shows continuity.
  63. If the meter reads OL with the leads connected, the thermal fuse is bad and needs replacement.
  64. Reconnect both thermal-fuse wires after the test.
  65. The wires on the rear thermal cutoff, thermostats, thermostat heater, and heater terminals can be reversed without changing operation.
  66. Keep the dryer unplugged and remove the rear panel from the control top.
  67. Locate the start switch behind the Start button.
  68. Set the multimeter to ohms and connect the leads to the start-switch terminals.
  69. Press the start switch in.
  70. A good start switch reads about 0.1 ohm or shows continuity while pressed.
  71. If the switch reads OL while pressed, replace the start switch.
  72. Reinstall all panels and the lint-filter screws before using the dryer.
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