How to Troubleshoot and Test a Kenmore Stove Triple Burner Element

ID: 221344

Description: [youtubevideo|HOUyGJQbB0E]Use this guide to...

Steps:

  1. Unplug the stove or shut off the range breaker before touching any wiring.
  2. A glass-top stove uses high-voltage power, so do not take resistance readings on a live circuit.
  3. Let the cooktop cool completely before working near the element or glass top.
  4. Use a non-contact voltage tester to confirm that power is off before accessing the burner-switch wiring.
  5. Access the back of the burner switch and the console wiring according to the service instructions for your model.
  6. Label or photograph each wire before disconnecting it so it goes back to the correct terminal.
  7. Use the element wiring to identify the three burner windings.
  8. L2 enters the element, passes through the high-limit switch, and becomes the common terminal for all three windings.
  9. The three remaining element terminals are the L1 inputs for the center, middle, and outer rings.
  10. In single mode, L2 and one L1 input heat the center ring.
  11. In dual mode, L2 and two L1 inputs heat the center and middle rings.
  12. In triple mode, L2 and all three L1 inputs heat the full burner.
  13. Locate the rear of the burner switch in the control console.
  14. Identify the incoming L1 and L2 power wires from the terminal block.
  15. The switch sends one L2 output and up to three L1 outputs to the element.
  16. In single mode, the switch sends L2 and one L1 output to the center ring.
  17. In dual mode, the switch sends L2 and two L1 outputs to the center and middle rings.
  18. In triple mode, the small switch closes a jumper path from the middle winding and sends power to the outer-ring L1 output.
  19. Set the multimeter to ohms.
  20. Keep the stove unplugged or the breaker off for every resistance test.
  21. Connect one meter lead to the common wire for all three burner windings.
  22. Use the brown wire labeled 2 on the switch as the common reference when testing each ring from the back of the switch.
  23. Remove the wire being tested from the switch before measuring it.
  24. Connect one meter lead to the common wire for all three burner windings.
  25. Find the single-burner L1 wire with the purple wires attached to it.
  26. Remove that purple single-burner L1 wire from the switch.
  27. Connect the other meter lead to the purple single-burner L1 wire.
  28. A reading of about 50 ohms means the burner-winding path is good.
  29. If the burner does not heat and this reading is about 50 ohms, the burner switch is likely bad.
  30. An OL reading means the burner winding or high-limit switch is open, so replace the burner element assembly.
  31. Connect one meter lead to the brown number 2 common wire on the switch.
  32. Test the wire that goes to the dual- and triple-switch path for the outer ring.
  33. A reading of about 77 to 78 ohms means the outer-ring winding is good.
  34. With that wire removed and the burner switch off, test the other side of that circuit for the middle ring.
  35. A reading of about 51 ohms means the middle-ring winding is good.
  36. Test the brown wire with the white stripe for the inner or center ring.
  37. A reading of about 50 ohms means the inner or center ring winding is good.
  38. An OL reading on any ring test means that ring circuit is open and the element or high-limit path is suspect.
  39. Use good ring readings to rule out the triple-burner element windings.
  40. Inspect the switch wiring and terminals for burned wires, loose connectors, or other visible damage.
  41. If the wiring looks good, the other burners work, and the single or dual function still fails, diagnose a bad burner switch.
  42. Replace the burner switch if the tests point to the switch instead of the element.
  43. Locate the small push-button switch on the other side of the console.
  44. Find the outer-burner ring wire and the jumper wire that runs from the middle burner ring to the triple-burner switch.
  45. Remove one wire from the push-button switch.
  46. Clip the meter leads to both sides of the push-button switch.
  47. The switch can be awkward to reach, so use alligator-clip test leads if needed.
  48. With the switch closed, expect about 0.1 to 0.2 ohm.
  49. Press the switch to open it and watch for the meter to change to OL.
  50. If the reading does not change when the switch is pressed, replace the triple push-button switch.
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