Frigidaire Stove Turbo Boil Burner Element Replacement

ID: 221345

Description: [youtubevideo|LngaKJKcujo]Use this guide to...

Steps:

1. Turn all burner controls off and let the cooktop cool completely.
2. Unplug the stove before removing any panels, switches, wires, or burners.
3. The surface-burner circuit uses 240 V, so do not perform live-voltage tests unless you are trained and equipped.
4. Wear work gloves and safety glasses while handling the glass top, sheet metal, and burner braces.
5. Keep screws and wire photos organized so the reassembly matches the original layout.
6. Confirm that the failed burner is the large left-front turbo boil burner.
7. Check whether the other surface burners and the oven heat normally.
8. If the other burners and the oven work, the stove likely has proper incoming power.
9. If several heat sources fail, stop here and troubleshoot incoming power instead of the burner circuit.
10. When only this burner fails, focus the diagnosis on the burner switch and burner element.
11. Think of the turbo boil burner as two heating elements built into one radiant element.
12. The two outer terminals connect to the larger primary winding.
13. The two inner terminals connect to the smaller secondary winding.
14. On low settings, only the primary winding heats.
15. At setting five or above, the secondary winding fills in the gaps so the burner heats faster.
16. Dual-element and triple-element burners work similarly, but their wiring can differ.
17. Pull the control knob straight off the turbo boil switch.
18. Remove the two screws behind the knob.
19. Pull the burner switch out through the back of the control panel.
20. Photograph the switch wiring before disconnecting anything.
21. Support the switch so the wires are not pulled tight.
22. Use this wiring map to identify the turbo boil switch terminals and wires.
23. The black wire with a red marking and the red wire with a black marking bring 240 V into the switch.
24. The two orange wires leave the switch and feed the primary winding on the two outer burner terminals.
25. The white wire runs directly to one side of the secondary winding.
26. A red jumper feeds the small auxiliary switch on the front of the burner switch.
27. That auxiliary switch sends power out on the blue wire to the other side of the secondary winding.
28. Below setting five, the auxiliary switch stays open and only the primary winding heats.
29. At setting five or above, the auxiliary switch closes and powers the secondary winding.
30. Keep the stove unplugged.
31. Move the stove enough to reach the rear panel.
32. Remove the rear-panel screws and lift off the rear panel.
33. Locate the turbo boil switch and the wires from the wiring map.
34. You can test the burner windings from the rear without lifting the glass cooktop.
35. Set the multimeter to ohms.
36. Never measure resistance on a powered circuit.
37. Clip one meter lead to each orange-wire terminal.
38. A good primary winding on this burner reads about 26 ohms.
39. OL, out of limits, or no continuity means the primary winding is open.
40. Clip one meter lead to the white burner wire.
41. Clip the other meter lead to the blue wire that leaves the auxiliary switch and goes to the burner.
42. A good secondary winding on this burner reads close to 50 ohms.
43. OL, out of limits, or no continuity means the secondary winding is open.
44. If the burner heats below setting five but not above it, focus on the secondary circuit.
45. Replace the turbo boil burner element if either winding reads open.
46. Replace the burner switch if both windings show normal resistance and the burner still does not heat.
47. Recheck the blue wire, white wire, and auxiliary switch if only the secondary heating is missing.
48. Match the replacement parts to the stove model and the original wiring layout.
49. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the matching terminals on the replacement switch.
50. Use the wiring map and your photos to keep the power wires, orange primary wires, white wire, red jumper, and blue wire in the correct places.
51. Fit the replacement switch through the back of the control panel.
52. Reinstall the two screws behind the knob.
53. Push the knob back onto the shaft.
54. Skip the burner-element replacement steps if the switch was the only failed part.
55. Have a helper support the glass cooktop while it is raised.
56. Remove only the two screws under the front ledge closest to the oven cavity.
57. Leave the other three screws in place because they secure a separate metal plate.
58. Lift the cooktop to expose the burners.
59. The burner braces push the elements up against the glass, but the burners do not attach directly to the glass.
60. Each brace has one screw at each end.
61. If a helper is not holding the brace, place a box under the center of the target brace.
62. Keep support under the brace so both burners on that brace do not drop when you remove the screws.
63. Remove the screw at each end of the brace with a stubby Phillips screwdriver or a 1/4 inch nut driver, depending on the fastener.
64. Lower or reposition the support enough to reach the target burner.
65. Keep the brace screws separate for reassembly.
66. Mark the mounting-hole positions on both sides of the old burner with a marker.
67. The brace has several mounting positions for different burners.
68. Photograph all six burner wires before disconnecting them.
69. All six wires must return to the same positions on the replacement burner.
70. Disconnect the burner wires by pulling on the terminal connectors, not the wire insulation.
71. Lift the old burner enough to expose the mounting tabs in the bracket slots.
72. Squeeze the locking tab beneath the bracket while lifting the burner tab through the slot.
73. Repeat on the other side of the burner.
74. Remove the old burner from the brace.
75. These tabs lock in place, so squeeze each tab inward before lifting.
76. Move the two mounting clips to the same numbered positions on the replacement turbo boil burner.
77. Use your marks and the stamped numbers so the burner ring lines up with the printed ring on the glass.
78. A misaligned burner can glow to one side of the glass ring.
79. Handle the replacement element by its metal frame.
80. The insulating material and heating coils are brittle, so do not press on them.
81. Set the replacement burner onto the brace with the tabs seated in the marked slots.
82. Reconnect all six wires to the matching terminals using your photos and the wiring map.
83. Raise the brace back against the cooktop so the burners sit flat under the glass.
84. Reinstall the screw at each end of the brace with a stubby Phillips screwdriver or a 1/4 inch nut driver.
85. Lower the cooktop carefully.
86. Reinstall the two front-ledge screws.
87. Reinstall the rear panel if you removed it for testing.
88. Clear all tools from the stove.
89. Plug the stove back in.
90. Keep your hands, wires, and tools away from the hot surface during the test.
91. Turn the turbo boil burner to High.
92. Confirm that the full element glows red, including the secondary fill-in coils.
93. Dim the room lights if needed to see the glow clearly.
94. Turn the burner off after confirming it heats.
95. If the burner still does not heat correctly, unplug the stove and repeat the resistance and wiring checks.