How to Troubleshoot Draining and Spinning Issues in a Front Load Washing Machine

ID: 221442

Description: [youtubevideo|KixjQQdGNF4]Use this guide to...

Steps:

  1. Look for wet clothes at the end of the cycle, slow draining, no draining, or a washer that will not enter the spin cycle.
  2. Treat slow-drain, no-drain, and some off-balance error codes as possible drain-pump symptoms.
  3. Coins, pins, bra underwires, dental floss, small garments, string, thread, sand, and similar debris can clog the coin trap or pump.
  4. Clean the drain-pump area before replacing parts, because debris is a common cause of spin and drain complaints.
  5. Unplug the washer before removing panels or touching the pump.
  6. Turn off the water supply valves if you need to move or tip the washer.
  7. Wear work gloves if the cabinet has sharp edges.
  8. Place towels and a shallow pan under the front of the washer to catch water from the hoses and pump.
  9. A front-load washer is heavy and can fall if it is not supported while tipped.
  10. Get help before tipping the washer back or working underneath it.
  11. If the washer has a lower access panel or a small pump-filter door, use that opening to reach the drain pump.
  12. Tilt the washer back against a wall only far enough to reach the screws under the lower panel.
  13. Remove the two screws under the lower panel.
  14. Pull the bottom of the panel outward to release it.
  15. Lift the panel off its alignment pins.
  16. If the washer has no removable lower panel, decide whether you can safely work through the bottom opening or if the full front panel needs to come off.
  17. Work from underneath only if you can comfortably reach the pump, clamps, and hoses.
  18. Remove the full front panel if the pump is too hard to reach from below.
  19. Removing the full front panel takes longer, but it usually makes hose reinstallation easier and less leak-prone.
  20. Panel screws, clips, and door-boot details vary by model.
  21. Locate the large rubber boot that runs from the bottom of the tub to the drain pump.
  22. The plastic insert inside this boot is the coin trap.
  23. The coin trap catches pocket debris before it reaches the impeller.
  24. Remove this boot before removing the drain pump.
  25. Use pliers to squeeze the spring clamp at the pump end of the rubber boot.
  26. Slide the spring clamp off the pump inlet.
  27. Use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen the clamp holding the boot to the tub.
  28. Pull the boot off the tub fitting.
  29. Leave the small pressure-switch tube attached to the boot.
  30. Move the boot aside with the pressure-switch tube still connected.
  31. Squeeze the bottom of the rubber boot to push the plastic coin trap outward.
  32. Pull the coin trap out of the boot.
  33. Remove coins, pins, dental floss, bra underwires, small garments, and any other debris from the trap.
  34. Check the trap openings for objects small enough to pass through into the pump.
  35. Clean the inside of the rubber boot before reinstalling the trap.
  36. Reach into the pump inlet and gently try to spin the impeller with a finger.
  37. Debris inside the pump can be sharp, so do not force a bare finger into the opening.
  38. If the impeller spins, the pump is not blocked at this point.
  39. If the impeller will not move, leave the washer unplugged and remove the pump for cleaning.
  40. Loosen the clamp on the drain hose that runs toward the back of the washer.
  41. Pull the drain hose off the pump and catch the water with towels and a shallow pan.
  42. Remove the two pump mounting screws with a Phillips screwdriver or a 5/16 inch nut driver.
  43. Turn the pump around and disconnect the electrical plug from the back.
  44. Remove the drain pump from the washer.
  45. Inspect the pump inlet for string, thread, coins, pins, sand, grime, stones, or other debris.
  46. Use needle nose pliers to pull debris out of the pump housing.
  47. If debris is still trapped, remove the four cover screws from the pump housing with a Phillips screwdriver.
  48. One cover screw may be hidden under a small plastic tab.
  49. Keep track of the original screw holes even if the screws are identical.
  50. Pull the front cover off the pump housing.
  51. Clean around the impeller until it spins freely.
  52. Reinstall the front cover with the four screws in their original holes.
  53. Reconnect the electrical plug to the back of the drain pump.
  54. Position the pump and reinstall the two mounting screws.
  55. Reconnect the rear drain hose and secure its clamp.
  56. Reinstall the coin trap inside the rubber boot.
  57. Push the boot back onto the tub fitting and the pump inlet.
  58. Secure both clamps and make sure every connection is fully seated so it does not leak.
  59. Confirm that the pressure-switch tube is still attached and not kinked.
  60. Reinstall the lower access panel or full front panel with all fasteners.
  61. Move the washer upright and reconnect the power cord.
  62. Turn the water supply valves back on if you shut them off.
  63. Run a drain or spin cycle with no laundry in the washer.
  64. Watch the pump, rubber boot, drain hose, and panel area for leaks while the washer drains.
  65. If you see a leak, stop the cycle, unplug the washer, and reseat the leaking hose or clamp.
  66. Confirm that the washer drains normally and reaches spin speed.
  67. If a slow-drain or no-drain code returns, recheck the coin trap, pump impeller, and drain hose for remaining debris.
  68. If the washer drains normally but still will not spin, continue troubleshooting spin-related parts such as the door lock assembly.
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