iPhone 18 Pro Max Screen Replacement

ID: 238624

Description: Follow this guide to replace a broken, cracked,...

Steps:

  1. Let your iPhone's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair—a charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.
  2. Unplug all cables from your phone.
  3. Hold the power and either volume button and slide to power off your phone.
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  5. Glass shards can complicate disassembly—or worse, cause injury. If your phone is cracked, follow this step.
  6. Apply strips of packing tape to the cracked glass until it's completely covered—this will help keep the glass contained and allow the suction cup to stick.
  7. Make sure there's a single strip of tape (not overlapping) across the bottom edge, big enough for a suction cup to fit on.
  8. Only cover the glass itself—don't stick any tape to the frame.
  9. Consider wearing safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
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  11. Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to remove the two 7.5 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.
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  13. If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
  14. Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
  15. Alternatively, you can tape a coin 3 mm from the tip of the pick.
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  17. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's slightly too hot to touch.
  18. Improper use of a heat gun can destroy the display and/or battery—follow the linked instructions carefully.
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  20. Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen, as close to the edge as possible.
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  22. To avoid damaging your screen in the next step, note the following:
  23. There's a plastic bezel on the underside of the screen. Your opening pick will go underneath this bezel.
  24. There's a seam between the plastic bezel and the display panel. Don't insert your pick here or you'll damage the screen.
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  26. Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force until a gap forms between the screen and frame.
  27. The iPhone cools off very quickly. If you're having trouble, reheat the screen and try again.
  28. Insert the tip of an opening pick in the gap you just created.
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  30. Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm under the screen to avoid damaging the following components:
  31. The screen and ambient light sensor cables, located near the volume buttons.
  32. Delicate spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone.
  33. The underside of the screen has thin, metal clips that go into corresponding slots on the frame.
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  35. Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
  36. Leave the pick inserted under the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.
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  38. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the screen until it's slightly too hot to touch.
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  40. Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
  41. Slide the pick up the right edge, stopping just before the antenna line, to separate the adhesive and release the two clips.
  42. Leave the pick inserted under the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.
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  44. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the screen until it's slightly too hot to touch.
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  46. Insert a third opening pick near the bottom left corner of the screen.
  47. Slide the pick up around the bottom left corner, then up the left edge to separate the adhesive and release the clip, stopping just before the antenna line.
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  49. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge of the screen until it's slightly too hot to touch.
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  51. Gently pull the screen downwards, and slide the pick on the right edge around the top right corner of the screen.
  52. Slide the broad side of the opening pick along the top to slice the adhesive while gently pulling the screen down.
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  54. At this point, the screen should be released from the phone frame. If it feels stuck, go back around the perimeter and separate any remaining adhesive or clips.
  55. Lift the screen straight up and swing it over the left edge of the phone, propping it up against a sturdy box or stack of books so the cables aren't strained.
  56. Alternatively, you can lay the screen down flat over the left side. Be careful not to strain the delicate flex cables.
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  58. Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
  59. Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to remove the two 1.2 mm‑long screws securing the battery and screen cable covers (one for each cover).
  60. Small iFixit Phillips bits are designed to work with JIS screws. You can try Phillips screwdrivers from other manufacturers, but you risk stripping the screw.
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  62. Remove the two covers.
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  64. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
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  66. Use the point of a spudger or tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the screen and front sensors press connectors.
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  68. Remove the screen.
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  70. Congratulations on completing disassembly! The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your iPhone.
  71. Reassembly photos were shot with the previous generation iPhone while we wait for parts. The photos may have minor visual discrepancies, but the procedure will be correct for your iPhone.
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  73. Work around the fragile grounding clips as you clean the frame. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.
  74. Use tweezers or your fingers to remove large pieces of adhesive from the frame perimeter.
  75. Use a spudger to scrape the adhesive residue off the frame.
  76. If the adhesive feels stubborn, apply some heat using a hair dryer or heat gun and try again.
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  78. Apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the adhesive residue.
  79. Use a microfiber or lint-free cloth to wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the residue.
  80. Take your time doing this. A clean frame allows replacement adhesive to lay evenly, ensuring a better bond.
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  82. If you're reusing your screen, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to a microfiber or lint-free cloth and wipe around the perimeter to prepare the surface for new adhesive.
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  84. Without peeling any liners, lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.
  85. Use features such as the camera cutout and notches along the top and bottom edges to visualize how the adhesive will lay in the frame.
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  87. Grab the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose a third of the adhesive.
  88. If your adhesive has multiple liners, peel the liner that exposes the side that sticks to the frame.
  89. The exposed adhesive is very sticky. Don't let it touch anything until you're ready to apply it to the frame.
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  91. Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.
  92. Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone's frame.
  93. When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame.
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  95. Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive as you gently press the adhesive into place.
  96. If you've correctly aligned the adhesive, the edges will fall perfectly into place.
  97. If your adhesive is slightly misaligned, gently pull the long edges into alignment with the frame.
  98. If the adhesive begins to crease or wrinkle, remove it and start over with fresh adhesive.
  99. If you don't have another set of adhesive strips handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive. Just keep in mind that your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you replace the adhesive.
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  101. Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.
  102. Work around the fragile grounding clips. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.
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  104. Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive. The pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.
  105. At this point, you'll still have liners covering the perimeter. Don't remove these liners yet—they prevent the adhesive from accidentally sticking while you reassemble your iPhone.
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  107. Set the iPhone screen next to the frame such that the screen cables can comfortably reach the logic board.
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  109. Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the two screen connectors onto the logic board.
  110. Don't try to force the connectors into place. If you're having trouble, reposition them and try again.
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  112. Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the battery connector onto the logic board.
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  114. This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your iPhone:
  115. Power on your iPhone and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down and continue reassembly.
  116. If your iPhone doesn't turn on, connect it to a power source and try again.
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  118. Tuck the top edge of the battery connector cover under the cutout lip.
  119. Make sure the tab is tucked under the lip.
  120. Align the cover by its screw hole and lay it in place.
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  122. Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.2 mm‑long screw to secure the battery connector cover.
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  124. Tuck the left edge of the screen connector cover under the cutout lip.
  125. Align the cover by its screw hole and lay it in place.
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  127. Use a JIS 00 screwdriver to install the 1.2 mm‑long screw to secure the screen connector cover.
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  129. With one hand hold the screen steady.
  130. Use your fingers or tweezers to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.
  131. Make sure nothing touches the exposed adhesive.
  132. Check the internals for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.
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  134. Lower the screen onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.
  135. If you feel resistance, a perimeter clip may have bent out of place and is being crushed by the frame. Look at the point of resistance and gently straighten any bent clips.
  136. Make sure the screen edge isn't pinching any cables.
  137. Press along the edges of the iPhone until the screen sits flush against the frame.
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  139. Firmly squeeze around the entire perimeter of the iPhone.
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  141. Use a hair dryer, heat gun, or an iOpener to heat the screen perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.
  142. The heat softens the adhesive and helps create a better bond.
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  144. Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to install the two 7.5 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.
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