DualShock 4 Right Analog Stick Replacement

ID: 27763

Description: Here is a DualShock 4 controller that had a...

Steps:

1. Check the model number on the back of your controller. This guide was written using model CUH-ZCT1U. If you have another model, the guide procedure and replacement parts may differ slightly.
2. If you have the second generation DualShock 4, model CUH-ZCT2U, use these guides.

3. If you need to stabilize your controller during this repair, lay it on a soft surface such as a microfiber cloth.
4. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 6.4 mm-long screws securing the rear case.

5. Use an opening pick to pry each corner of the L1 button from the front case.
6. Cover the button to prevent it from ejecting out of your workspace.
7. Remove the button.

8. Use your opening pick to pry and remove the R1 button, just as you did for the L1 button.

9. Six plastic clips secure the rear case to the front case. The next four steps demonstrate how to release these clips before you can open the controller.
10. Insert your opening pick at a downward angle between the front case and rear case, halfway between the handle and the action buttons.
11. Slide your pick toward the handle and pry up to release the first clip.
12. Repeat this procedure on the other side of the controller to release the second clip.

13. Two more clips secure the rear case near the extension port and the headphone jack.
14. Insert your opening pick between the front case and rear case at either side of the ports.
15. Twist your pick to unclip this section of the rear case from the front case.
16. If the rear case feels stuck, insert and twist your pick from different angles.
17. Don't open the controller yet, as it's still held together by two very delicate clips near the triggers.

18. The final two clips are very delicate, and must be disengaged from inside the controller. If you break them, don't worry—it won't affect this repair or your controllers functionality.
19. Locate the clips by looking through the gap above the R2 or L2 buttons.

20. Insert the point of a spudger through the gap above the R2 button and push the retaining clip outward.
21. While pushing the clip outward, slowly pull the rear case away from the front case until you feel them separate.
22. Don't fully open the controller until each of the R2 and L2 clips have been disengaged.
23. Repeat this procedure for the clip near the L2 button.

24. Press the R2 button and slide the rear case over it.

25. Press the L2 button and slide the rear case over it.

26. Flip the rear case over the top of the controller and lay it down, being careful not to strain the interconnect cable.

27. Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the interconnect cable by pulling its blue pull tab straight out of the socket.
28. During reassembly, reconnect the cable with its blue pull tab facing the outside of the controller.

29. Use tweezers or your fingers to grab and disconnect the head of the battery cable from the motherboard.
30. Only pull on the head of the connector—don't pull on the cable itself.

31. Remove the battery.

32. Grab and remove the reset button extension from its recess in the battery bracket.

33. Locate the two clips securing the battery bracket to the motherboard.
34. Insert the point of your spudger into the opening behind the right bracket clip.
35. Depress the clip to disengage it from the motherboard.
36. Lift up the right edge of the battery bracket.

37. Insert the point of your spudger in the opening behind the left bracket clip.
38. Depress the clip to disengage it from the motherboard.
39. Remove the battery bracket.

40. Use the point of your spudger to flip up the locking flap securing the touch pad cable ZIF connector.
41. Use tweezers or your fingers to disconnect the cable using its blue pull tab.

42. Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 6.4 mm screw securing the motherboard.

43. Be careful not to strain the vibration motor cables. Follow this guide to re-solder the vibration motors if they break off the motherboard.
44. Lift the motherboard from the midframe.
45. Guide the analog stick covers through their cutouts in the front case.
46. Flip the motherboard over the bottom of the controller, leaving the vibration motor cables attached.

47. These are the solder connections that will need to be desoldered. Since the board is upside down, left will become right.
48. Use a desoldering wick and flux to melt and remove the solder
49. This may take a bit of practice since all the solder will have to be removed. It does help to pull a bit on the joystick while melting the solder and using the wick.

50. Once all the contacts are desoldered, the old joystick can be removed.
51. Check that all the holes are cleared of old solder. Hypodermic needles as well as very small drill bits can be used to clear the holes.
52. Insert the new joystick into the circuit board. Make sure it is properly seated and that all the contacts line up with the holes in the circuit board.

53. Double check to make sure the joystick is seated properly.
54. Solder all the contacts to the board.
55. Here is the board after the repair. All that is left is to clean off the old flux with some isopropyl alcohol.