iPhone 6s Wi-Fi Diversity Antenna Replacement

ID: 61449

Description: Follow the steps in this guide to replace the...

Steps:

1. Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
2. Press to eject the tray.
3. This may require a significant amount of force.

4. Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.
5. When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

6. Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
7. Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
8. Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, on either side of the Lightning connector.

9. The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
10. For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
11. Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
12. Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
13. Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
14. Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
15. If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

16. Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
17. Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
18. Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
19. Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
20. If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, rotate the handle a quarter turn.
21. Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait a few seconds between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
22. Skip the next three steps.

23. If you don't have an Anti-Clamp, follow the next three steps to use a suction handle.
24. Apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.
25. Heat softens the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

26. Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
27. Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.
28. Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.
29. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

30. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
31. Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.
32. Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
33. If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.

34. There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.
35. Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

36. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

37. Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.
38. Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

39. Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.
40. Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

41. Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

42. Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.
43. Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

44. Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

45. Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.
46. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
47. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
48. In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.
49. During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.
50. During reassembly, the camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body. The hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip.
51. These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place.
52. During reassembly, reverse order for getting the screen clipped back in means pressing along the right side top to bottom corner. Then the left.

53. Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:
54. One 2.9 mm screw
55. One 2.2 mm screw
56. Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

57. Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

58. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

59. Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

60. Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:
61. Three 1.2 mm screws
62. One 2.8 mm screw

63. Remove the display cable bracket.

64. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

65. Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
66. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

67. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.
68. Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

69. Remove the display assembly.
70. During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

71. Use the point of a spudger to lift and disconnect the antenna cable from the bottom end of the logic board.
72. To reconnect antenna cables like these to the socket, carefully align the connector to the socket, then use the flat end of a spudger to press down. It should click in place. If not, check for alignment. Do not use excessive force.

73. Use the point of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

74. If you are following this guide to replace the Lightning connector, you can choose to keep the antenna cable connected and skip this step and the next one. Be very careful not to strain the delicate antenna cable when you move the loudspeaker around.
75. Use the point of a spudger to lift and disconnect the antenna cable from its socket near the top of the logic board.

76. Carefully lift the antenna cable and de-route it from the edge of the phone. Use the point of a spudger to help lift the cable to free it from the retaining clips.
77. If the cable does not have enough room to lift up, loosen this Phillips screw securing the logic board so that the board can give more wiggle room.
78. Be sure to re-tighten this screw during re-installation.
79. During re-installation, be sure to route the antenna cable underneath the logic board corner.
80. During re-installation, you can also re-insert the SIM card tray after re-routing the antenna cable.
81. If you feel any resistance, stop and make sure that the tray isn't snagging the antenna cable.

82. Remove the following Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
83. Two 2.6 mm screws
84. One 2.3 mm screw
85. This screw may be covered by some tape.
86. One 2.3 mm screw
87. This screw is different from the prior one. Be sure not to mix the two together.
88. One 3.0 mm screw

89. Insert the flat end of a spudger between the long edge of the speaker module and the case wall.
90. Pry gently to loosen the speaker module.
91. Once the module is loose, lift and remove the speaker module from the phone.

92. Remove the tape covering the antenna cable on the edge of the speaker.

93. Remove the cable clip from the left side of the speaker.

94. Prepare an iOpener and lay it over the antenna to soften the adhesive securing it to the speaker.
95. Use a plastic opening pick to break up the adhesive securing the antenna to the speaker.

96. Remove the antenna from the speaker.