Honda 3000 Watt Inverter Generator EU3000IS1AWK Stator Replacement

ID: 136210

Description: This guide shows how to remove and replace the ...

Steps:

  1. Before you begin, make sure the generator is off and cool to the touch.
  2. Use a large flathead screwdriver to unlock the maintenance cover.
  3. Open the maintenance cover.
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  5. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw securing the spark plug cover.
  6. Remove the spark plug cover.
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  8. Grab the plastic housing at the end of the spark plug wire.
  9. Pull firmly to disconnect the wire from the spark plug.
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  11. Turn the fuel valve to the cutoff position.
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  13. Carefully tilt the generator to its side or back.
  14. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the two nuts securing the front bushing mounts to the bottom of the generator.
  15. Carefully tilt the generator back to an upright position.
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  17. Unlatch the four clips securing the air cleaner cover.
  18. Remove the air cleaner cover.
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  20. Remove the air cleaner filter from the housing.
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  22. Pull and disconnect the breather tube from the top corner of the air cleaner housing.
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  24. Pull and disconnect the lower tube from the bottom corner of the air cleaner housing.
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  26. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the three fasteners securing the air cleaner housing:
  27. Two 10 mm nuts
  28. During reassembly, tighten these nuts to 6.3 ft-lb (8.5 N-m).
  29. One 10 mm bolt
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  31. Pull the housing out slightly from its recess.
  32. The housing still has tubes clipped to it.
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  34. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry and unclip the tube from the air cleaner housing.
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  36. Remove the air cleaner housing.
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  38. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the four capped nuts securing the front cover.
  39. Remove the front cover.
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  41. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the four bolts securing the handle to the frame.
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  43. Remove the handle.
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  45. Use an 8 mm socket to disconnect the battery wires from the battery terminals.
  46. Disconnect the black negative cable first to prevent the risk of shorting the battery.
  47. During reassembly, connect the black negative cable first. Make sure you reconnect the wires in the correct polarity.
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  49. Unclip the battery strap from the lower plate.
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  51. Remove the battery.
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  53. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the four capped nuts securing the lower plate.
  54. Set these capped nuts apart. They look similar, but are smaller than the front cover nuts.
  55. Remove the lower plate.
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  57. Insert a flathead screwdriver into the top of the brown fuse clip in order to release the fuse holder.
  58. Detach the fuse holder from the brown clip.
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  60. Use pliers to lift and disconnect the choke cable from the choke stay.
  61. During reassembly, be sure to test the choke to ensure that it is properly connected.
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  63. Use a long shaft Phillips screwdriver to remove the deeply recessed screw securing the fuel cutoff switch.
  64. Be careful not to turn the fuel cutoff switch while you remove the screw.
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  66. Remove the fuel cutoff switch.
  67. During reassembly, be sure to test the switch to ensure that it is properly installed.
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  69. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the four bolts securing the control panel.
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  71. Carefully tilt the control panel downwards.
  72. The control panel will still be connected to many wires and cables. Be careful not to strain any of the connected wires.
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  74. Remove the following bolts securing the inverter:
  75. One 8 mm ground bolt
  76. Three 10 mm bolts (one behind the control panel)
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  78. Reach behind the inverter along the edges and disconnect the six connectors from the back of the inverter.
  79. All the connectors use locking tabs, so you will have to squeeze them in order to release them.
  80. The third image shows the locations of all six sockets on the inverter.
  81. Reassembly tip: Every socket on the inverter is different, so you can't plug something into the wrong place. Do not force the connectors into their sockets.
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  83. Remove the inverter.
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  85. If you are replacing the inverter and the replacement did not come with rubber mounts, follow the next two steps to transfer them over.
  86. Use a screwdriver to push the metal collar out of the center of the rubber mount.
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  88. Squeeze the mount and remove it from the inverter.
  89. Repeat the procedure with the remaining mounts and transfer them to the replacement inverter.
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  91. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the four capped nuts securing the rear cover.
  92. Remove the rear cover.
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  94. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the four bolts securing the muffler protector.
  95. Remove the muffler protector.
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  97. Pull the muffler shroud slightly away from the frame to access the top frame bolts.
  98. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the two bolts securing the top edge of the cover.
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  100. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the three bolts securing the front edge of the cover.
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  102. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the four bolts from the maintenance cover side.
  103. Remove the maintenance cover.
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  105. Carefully peel the maintenance cover seal from the frame.
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  107. Use an 8 mm socket to remove the two bolts securing the non-access side of the cover.
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  109. Unscrew the gas cap.
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  111. Lift the cover up slightly to free it from the frame and slide it back by a few inches.
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  113. At this point, it may be helpful to temporarily re-attach the control panel back onto the front frame with some 10 mm bolts.
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  115. Lift up and release the choke cable's rubber bushing from the choke stay.
  116. During reassembly, make sure that the choke cable's rubber bushing is properly seated on the choke stay.
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  118. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the three frame bolts securing the bottom of the front frame.
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  120. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the four bolts securing the top of the front frame.
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  122. Pull and disconnect the starter motor's black barrel and white barrel connectors.
  123. During reassembly, the wires should be reconnected to their respective colors.
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  125. Unplug the two-wire oil switch connector.
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  127. Unplug the four-wire regulator connector from the bottom edge of the control panel.
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  129. Unplug the two winding connectors.
  130. These connectors all have brown wiring in black sleeves.
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  132. Insert the edge of a large flathead screwdriver under the bottom edge of the front frame.
  133. Pry up and outward to release the bottom edge of the front frame.
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  135. Carefully swing the front frame to the right side of the generator.
  136. While the images show the control panel unbolted from the front frame, you can keep it bolted to the frame.
  137. The front frame is still connected to the generator by many wires. Be careful not to strain any wires.
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  139. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the three bolts securing the recoil starter.
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  141. Remove the recoil starter and move it out of the way.
  142. Be careful not to lose the metal collar in each of the recoil starter's bolt holes.
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  144. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the two bolts securing the starter pulley.
  145. Remove the starter pulley.
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  147. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the bolt securing the air cleaner housing bracket.
  148. Remove the air cleaner housing bracket.
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  150. Fuel may leak out when you disconnect this hose. Be ready to catch any spillage.
  151. Use pliers to squeeze and loosen the hose clamp securing the carburetor fuel line.
  152. Pull and disconnect the carburetor fuel line from the petcock assembly.
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  154. Be sure to drain the fuel tank before you perform this step.
  155. Use a large crescent wrench to loosen the petcock assembly from the fuel tank.
  156. Residual fuel will leak out as you remove the petcock assembly. Be ready to catch any spillage.
  157. Remove the petcock assembly.
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  159. Place a container below the carburetor drain tube to catch the excess fuel.
  160. The carburetor drain screw is located at the bottom of the carburetor.
  161. Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the brass fuel drain screw until fuel begins to drain out of the carburetor.
  162. Once you drain the fuel bowl, re-tighten the fuel drain screw.
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  164. Be sure to replace any gaskets that are torn or worn out.
  165. Remove the carburetor spacer gasket.
  166. Replacement part: Honda Spacer, Carburetor 16220-ZE1-020
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  168. Remove the choke stay.
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  170. Remove the air cleaner gasket.
  171. Replacement part: Honda Gasket, Air Cleaner 16269-ZE1-800
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  173. Slide the carburetor off the mounting bolts.
  174. During reassembly, use the third photo as a reference for how to route the carburetor tubes.
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  176. Disconnect the throttle control connector from the top of the carburetor.
  177. Unwrap the throttle control wires from the carburetor.
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  179. Remove the carburetor.
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  181. Remove the carburetor gasket.
  182. Replacement part: Honda Gasket, Carburetor 16221-ZH8-801
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  184. Remove the carburetor insulator.
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  186. If the carburetor insulator gasket is worn, remove and replace it.
  187. Replacement part: Honda Gasket, Insulator 16212-ZH8-800
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  189. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the seven bolts securing the fan cover:
  190. Four bolts on top
  191. One recessed bolt in the bottom left corner
  192. Two bolts in the bottom right corner
  193. During reassembly, be sure to reattach the ground wire.
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  195. Use a 12 mm socket to remove the mounting nuts securing the front bushings.
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  197. Insert a pry bar underneath the fan cover.
  198. Pry upwards to lift the generator assembly slightly.
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  200. As you lift the generator assembly with the pry bar, maneuver and remove the two generator mounts from their recess.
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  202. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the long bolt from the fan cover.
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  204. Carefully pull the fan cover away from the generator assembly.
  205. During reassembly, make sure that the cord grommet is properly slotted into the fan cover.
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  207. The fan cover is a tight fit. You may need to push the gas tank upwards as you maneuver the fan cover out.
  208. Remove the fan cover.
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  210. Remove the cooling fan.
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  212. Use a 19 mm socket to remove the nut securing the rotor to the generator shaft.
  213. During reassembly, tighten this nut to 55 ft-lb (74 N-m).
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  215. Attach a flywheel puller to the rotor and use it to loosen the rotor.
  216. To prevent the rotor from spinning, insert a flathead screwdriver into one of the rotor slots and brace it against the ignition coil bracket.
  217. Be careful not to insert the screwdriver too deeply into the slot, or you will damage the stator.
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  219. Remove the rotor.
  220. Be careful not to lose the Woodruff key.
  221. During reassembly, be sure to align the rotor to the Woodruff key.
  222. After you install the replacement rotor, rotate it by hand to make sure that the rotor does not rub against the stator.
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  224. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the two bolts securing the ignition coil.
  225. Loosen the ignition coil from the frame.
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  227. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the two bolts securing the ignition coil bracket.
  228. Remove the ignition coil bracket.
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  230. Use a 4 mm hex key to remove the four bolts securing the stator.
  231. During reassembly, tighten these bolts to 8 lb-ft (11 N-m).
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  233. Remove the stator.
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