Google Pixel 6a Earpiece Speaker Replacement

ID: 152762

Description: This repair guide was authored by the iFixit...

Steps:

1. Allow your battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged.
2. Fully power off your phone and unplug any cables.

3. Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole.
4. Press the SIM eject tool into the SIM card tray hole to eject the SIM card tray.
5. Remove the SIM card tray.

6. Before starting your repair, take note of the following:
7. Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. Do not pry at this seam.
8. Bezel seam: This is where the plastic bezel designed to protect the screen meets the frame. It's held in place by plastic clips. This is where you should pry.

9. The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
10. For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
11. If your screen is cracked, cover it with a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup adhere.
12. Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
13. Slide the arms over the right edge of your phone.
14. Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge of the phone—one on the front, and one on the back.
15. Squeeze the cups together to apply suction.
16. If you find that the surface of your phone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

17. Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
18. Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
19. Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

20. Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp so it lays on the right edge of the phone.
21. You can also use a hair dryer or heat gun—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
22. Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
23. Insert an opening pick under the screen frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
24. If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
25. Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
26. Skip the next two steps.

27. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
28. A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

29. Apply a suction cup to the screen, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
30. Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the bezel and the frame.
31. Insert an opening pick into the gap.
32. Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
33. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

34. While still applying suction, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.
35. Carefully push the pick in while prying to reposition the opening pick into the bezel seam.
36. Only insert the pick up to 3.5 mm to avoid damaging the internals.

37. Slide the pick along the right edge to release the plastic clips securing the bezel to the frame.
38. Position the pick at the top-right edge before moving to the next step.

39. Rotate the opening pick around the top-right corner of the phone to release the clips.
40. Leave the opening pick in the top-right corner to prevent the clips from re-locking.
41. Only insert the pick up to 4 mm to avoid damaging the internals.

42. Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created.
43. Slide the pick along the top edge to release the clips.
44. When slicing around the front camera, only insert the pick up to 3 mm to avoid damaging the lens.

45. Rotate the opening pick around the top-left corner of the phone to release the clips.
46. Leave the opening pick in the top-left corner to prevent the clips from re-locking.

47. Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created.
48. Slide the pick along the left edge to release the clips.
49. Only insert the pick up to 3 mm to avoid damaging the internals.
50. Repeat the rotating and sliding procedure for the remaining edge.
51. At this point, the screen should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges of the screen, use an opening pick to release any remaining clips.

52. Don't try to remove the screen all the way yet. It's still connected to the frame by a flex cable.
53. Lift the right edge of the screen up and towards the left side of the device, like opening a book.
54. Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame before continuing.
55. Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid damaging the flex cable.

56. The display cable bracket is secured with metal clips.
57. Use tweezers to bend the bottom side of the bracket upwards, releasing the metal clip.
58. Remove the display cable bracket.
59. During reassembly, insert the top side of the bracket first before pressing down the other side. Failure to do so could result in sparks and logic board damage.

60. Be very careful performing this step, as you risk damaging tiny components around the press connector.
61. Insert the tip of an opening pick under the bottom right edge of the display cable press connector, right above the nearby screw hole.
62. Pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector.
63. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

64. The back of the Pixel's screen is very fragile. Even a small scratch or dent can damage the screen.
65. To prevent damaging your screen or replacement screen:
66. When handling your screen, grip it by its edges.
67. When placing the screen on your work area, make sure nothing is touching the bottom of the screen. Consider placing it on a soft, lint-free cloth.

68. Remove the screen.
69. During reassembly:
70. If you replaced your screen, check the front-facing camera hole and the sensor cutout on your replacement screen, and remove any remaining liners.
71. Check your phone if the proximity sensor's rubber gasket is missing—it might be stuck to the back of your old screen. Replace it if necessary.
72. This is a good point to test your phone before sealing it up. Temporarily connect your screen, power on your phone, and make sure it works as expected. Before continuing with reassembly, power off your phone.
73. Remember to reinstall the display cable bracket.
74. Follow this guide to replace the screen adhesive.
75. If you're installing a new screen, follow this guide to calibrate the fingerprint sensor.

76. Use tweezers to peel back the silver tape connecting the midframe and the top speaker.
77. Don't completely remove the tape. You only need to remove the bridge between the midframe and the top speaker.

78. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the two screws on both sides of the USB-C port.

79. Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 16 screws securing the midframe to the frame:
80. Eight 4.3 mm screws
81. Five 2.9 mm screws
82. Two 4.9 mm screws
83. One 4.6 mm screw

84. Insert a spudger between the top of the midframe and the frame, near the front camera.
85. Pry up with the spudger to release the top of the midframe from its clips.

86. Insert a spudger between the bottom left of the midframe and the frame.
87. Pry up with the spudger to release the bottom of the midframe from its clips.

88. Remove the midframe.
89. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal since the midframe is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
90. During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

91. Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the thermal paste.
92. Clean any remaining thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol and either a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth.
93. Repeat the cleaning process for the thermal paste on the midframe.
94. During reassembly, follow this guide for reapplying thermal paste to your device.

95. Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery's press connector.

96. If your device doesn't have a 5G mmWave antenna, skip the next four steps.
97. Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.

98. Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the bracket towards the right edge of the phone and disconnect its clip.
99. Remove the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.

100. Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna's press connector.

101. Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the 5G mmWave antenna.

102. Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the ultrawide rear camera's press connector.
103. Remove the ultrawide rear camera.

104. Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wide rear camera's press connector.
105. Remove the wide rear camera.

106. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the volume and power button press connector near the top left corner of the motherboard.

107. Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the motherboard.

108. Insert a spudger between the top of the motherboard and the frame, near the front camera.
109. Pry up to lift the motherboard until you can grip it with your fingers.

110. Tilt the top of the motherboard upwards to release its plastic clips.
111. Remove the motherboard.

112. The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered to the frame.
113. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top left of the phone's rear for two minutes.

114. Use blunt tweezers to grip the edge of the earpiece speaker connector.
115. Grip the square portion of the connector pad and not the cable.
116. Twist the tweezers away from the frame to separate the adhesive beneath the connector.
117. During reassembly, make sure the connector is slotted in its two peg holes to ensure the connector is aligned properly.

118. Use tweezers to peel back the silver tape connecting the frame and the top speaker.

119. Insert an opening pick between the frame and the earpiece speaker's screw hole bracket.
120. Pry up with the pick to separate the earpiece speaker from the frame.

121. Use your fingers to pull the earpiece speaker out of its slot in the frame and remove it.