HTC Vive XR Elite Headstraps Replacement

ID: 161400

Description: Follow this guide to replace the headstraps in...

Steps:

1. Before starting this repair, discharge the batteries in your headset below 25%. A charged battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire if damaged.
2. Playing Half Life: Alyx will do the trick!
3. The Vive XR Elite has a proximity sensor that puts the headset in standby mode to save battery when it isn't in use. To drain the battery faster you'll need to use the headset.

4. Disconnect the USB-C power cable.

5. Press the release button on the right battery cradle temple slot.
6. Pull the battery cradle away from the right temple slot to disconnect it.

7. Repeat the previous step for the left temple slot.

8. Separate the headset and battery cradle.

9. Insert a long edge of an opening pick in the gap between the two halves of the battery cradle, near the USB-C cable.

10. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of battery cradle to release its plastic clips.

11. Flip the battery cradle over.
12. Insert the long edge of an opening pick in the gap between the two halves of the battery cradle.

13. Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of battery cradle to release its plastic clips.

14. Pull apart the two halves of the battery cradle to completely separate them.

15. Use tweezers to peel back the graphite thermal tape covering the inner plastic frame.
16. If the tape tears a little, don't worry! During reassembly, stick it back in its original place as if it were still one piece

17. Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the nine screws securing the inner plastic frame:
18. Five 11.8 mm-long screws
19. Three 5.6 mm-long screws
20. One 5.6 mm-long screw
21. This screw is covered by a piece of black plastic tape. Use tweezers to remove it before unscrewing.
22. Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

23. Remove the inner plastic frame, making sure to thread the graphite thermal tape through it.

24. Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 5.6 mm-long screws securing the headstrap clips.

25. Use tweezers to remove the left and right headstrap clips.

26. Use tweezers or your fingers to peel back the thermal pad covering the battery board.
27. Work slowly to avoid tearing the thermal pad.

28. Use the flat end of a spudger to push the left and right battery cell connectors out of their respective sockets.

29. Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking flap on the power LED ZIF connector.
30. Use tweezers or your fingers to disconnect the power LED cable.
31. During reassembly, slide the cable into the connector and close the locking flap. If the cable is getting stuck, gently remove it and realign it before trying again.

32. Pull the black tab straight up on the USB-C power cable to disconnect it.
33. During reassembly, align the cable directly over the connector and press straight down to reconnect it.

34. Use tweezers or your fingers to peel the conductive tape away from the front metal battery enclosure.

35. Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 4.1 mm-long screws securing the battery board.

36. Remove the battery board.

37. Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the front metal battery enclosure:
38. Two 11.8 mm-long screws
39. One 4.8 mm-long screw

40. Slide the USB-C power cable to the left to unclip it.

41. Remove the front metal battery enclosure.

42. Stand the battery cradle upright so the battery cells can fold flat on your work surface.

43. Don't try to fully remove the batteries yet, as they're still attached to the cradle with graphite thermal tape.
44. Peel off the graphite thermal tape covering the right battery cell.
45. Remove the right battery cell.

46. Repeat the previous step for the left battery cell.

47. Grip the center plastic screw spacer with your fingers.
48. Remove the rear metal battery enclosure.

49. Hold one end of the USB-C power cable and pull it straight back to unclip it.
50. Remove the USB-C power cable.

51. Insert an opening pick under the adjustment dial faceplate.
52. Pry up to separate the adhesive securing the faceplate.
53. Remove the faceplate.
54. During reassembly, clean off any old adhesive using high-strength (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Use Tesa Tape to secure the faceplate to the adjustment dial.

55. Use tweezers to remove the plastic tape covering the adjustment dial screw.

56. Use a Torx T5 screwdriver to remove the 3.8 mm-long screw securing the adjustment dial.

57. Insert an opening pick between the adjustment dial and the screw spacer.
58. Pry the screw spacer away from the adjustment dial to remove it.

59. Pull the adjustment dial straight off the cradle and remove it.

60. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the center of the sprocket.
61. Remove the adjustment dial sprocket.

62. Adjust the headstraps so they're fully retracted into the cradle.
63. Insert the sprocket so its teeth fully mesh with the teeth in the socket.

64. During reassembly, make sure three pegs on the adjustment dial are inserted into the three cutouts on the sprocket:
65. Three adjustment dial pegs
66. Three sprocket cutouts
67. Use the molding marks to align the dial over the cutouts on the sprocket.
68. You'll know the dial is installed correctly when it easily turns counterclockwise and clicks when turned clockwise.

69. Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 4.1 mm-long screws securing the headstrap guide.

70. Remove the headstrap guide
71. The headstraps will spring up when the guide is removed.

72. Remove the left and right headstraps
73. During reassembly, reinstall the right headstrap first and the left one on top of it.