Midea FC307B Rice Cooker Teardown

ID: 175902

Description: This teardown was completed as part of my...

Steps:

1. Midea FC307B Rice Cooker (prior to this teardown) in full working order, though the outlet cable had been lost.
2. Cooker weighs 3.2kg
3. Length: 304mm
4. Height: 218mm
5. Width 210mm

6. Top filter pops off easily.
7. Top weighs 65g (both parts)
8. Length: 117mm
9. Width: 90mm
10. Height/Depth: 35mm
11. Top filter further breaks down into two more assemblies held together with a hook hinge and a latch

12. Latch mechanism is held to the part with a single Phillips head m2 screw
13. The 4 parts sit together (as shown) to form the latch mechanism.
14. Note: the large slot in the white button component, that allows it to slide past the screw which intersects it. The red line illustrated how the screw intersects it.
15. All component's are made from ABS plastic with exception of the stainless-steel screw, and steel spring.

16. The top of the filter had three parts that came off relatively easily. A neoprene gasket that could just be pulled off, the main injection moulded ABS plastic body. And a stamped stainless steel element.
17. The stainless-steel element had tabs that were folded around the main plastic body. It could easily be removed using a flat wedge screwdriver to flip them up.
18. These tabs folded into gaps on the underside of the plastic body.
19. Length: 117mm
20. Width: 90mm
21. Height/Depth: 12mm

22. Bottom component made from grey ABS injection moulded plastic.
23. Bottom is held to the upper body of the cooker using 4 long Phillips head m3 screws which had to be accessed with a long screwdriver.
24. Bottom was further supported by 2 shorter m3 screws that also held neoprene stoppers on the underside of the cooker. I am not sure what is the purpose of these neoprene stoppers, possibly heat insulation?
25. Length: 317mm
26. Width: 245mm
27. Depth/Height: 75mm

28. All the components I removed whilst unscrewing the bottom
29. White injection moulded ABS plastic housing for the outlet cable.
30. Neoprene white stoppers, held on using m3 screws. Not sure what purpose they have.
31. Neoprene feet, prevent the cooker from falling off a surface by creating friction with the surface.
32. 13mm long m3 Philips head screws, holds the bottom of the rice cooker to the upper

33. Removing the base by removing the screws, the inner workings of the cooker are exposed.
34. PCB circuit board - controls the cooker
35. Power outlet
36. Cooking/heating bowl - heats the removable aluminium bowl (second picture)
37. SEE STEP 18 FOR BOWL DETAILS

38. Mechanical buttons and circuit board are connected to a purple ABS injection moulded plastic frame
39. Frame is held to the main body of the cooker using 3 hard to access m2 Phillips head screws (here I have removed them)
40. Special hooks on the plastic frame for collecting and holding all the wires

41. Back cover had two purposes: (1) to prevent the handle from being able to line up with its slots (see next step) and (2) to cover the torsion springs that actuate the lid
42. Width: 32mm
43. Height: 77mm
44. Length: 130mm

45. After removing the bottom was able to see inside and see where the handle poked through onto the inside of the corner. Noticed the end of the handle had a nodule. Realised that the only way to remove the handle was to line up the nodule slot in the side.
46. Nodule slot on the handle, and on the side of the cooker
47. Weight of handle: 81g
48. Handle made from injection moulded ABS plastic. The mould notable has two halves indicated by the seam that runs along the inside of the handle
49. Height: 188mm
50. Width: 22mm
51. Length: 245mm
52. To remove handle and line it up with eh slots, the back cover had to be removed (previous step)

53. Removing the lid interior
54. button latches hold the lid interior inside of the lid - see arrows

55. Lid interior was held together using aluminium pop rivets - had to remove them by drilling the head off and using a punch to knock the rivets out.
56. Stamped aluminium plate
57. Outer neoprene gasket - injection moulded
58. Inner neoprene gasket - injection moulded
59. Main body housing - ABS plastic injection moulded
60. Steel springs
61. Riveting surface? ABS plastic injection moulded
62. Latches - ABS plastic injection moulded

63. To remove the ABS plastic clips I had to use a nail/thin screwdriver to push the clip ends inside the housing
64. Aluminium plate (like other parts of this cooker) held on by crimped tabs - had to uncrimp them using a thin screwdriver

65. Inside the lid there was a secondary stamped aluminium Pannel. It was held onto the lid curiously by 13 individual Phillips head screws
66. 12mm m3 Phillips head screw - stainless steel
67. 9mm m2 Phillips head screw - stainless steel
68. 12mm m3 Phillips head screw - nickel plated steel
69. Why 3 different types of screw with two different types of material used?
70. Brass nut for m3 screw/bolt
71. m3 washer for electronic component?

72. Once the interior aluminium plate was removed, there was a thin layer of aluminium foil held on using a thermal resistant adhesive. I pulled the foil off revealing a heat sensor
73. Heat sensor
74. Adhesive
75. Fuse?

76. Lid was connected by wires/leads that were adhered to the inside of the lid. Had to cut the wires with a wire cutter to be able to remove the lid.
77. Length: 270mm
78. Width: 232mm
79. height/Depth: 45mm

80. Inside the lid was a neoprene gasket - see purple for indication of where it went
81. Diameter of gasket:50mm
82. Hehgiht:15mm

83. Spin moulded anodised aluminium bowl
84. PTFE nonstick coating on the inside
85. Height: 110mm
86. Diameter: 206mm