Xbox Series X (Digital Edition) Power Button Board Replacement

ID: 178629

Description: Use this guide to replace the power button...

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your console.
Two stickers cover the back panel screws. You can remove the stickers without heating them, though it makes them much easier to remove cleanly.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the smaller sticker near the bottom of the back panel for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer to heat the sticker.

Use a pair of angled tweezers to remove the sticker hiding the first screw on the back panel, near the base.

Use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the larger sticker near the center of the back panel.

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape up a corner of the larger sticker until you can grip it with a pair of blunt tweezers.
Use blunt tweezers to peel back the sticker to reveal the second screw.
You only need to peel this sticker to where you can access the hidden screw. You don't need to pull it completely off.
Technically, these are tamper-evident stickers, but don't worry—Microsoft can't legally void your warranty, as long as you don't damage anything. Have fun!

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your console.
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 7.4 mm‑long screws securing the back panel.

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the left side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the right side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Grip the back panel at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the shell to unclip the long edges.
During reassembly, press along the edges of the back panel to snap it into place.

The back panel slots into a gap at the top of the shell.
Tilt the back panel up and pull it away from the top edge of the shell to release it from the gap.
Remove the back panel.

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the fan to the center chassis:
One 10.3 mm‑long pancake screw
Two 9 mm‑long screws

Use your fingernails or a pair of angled tweezers to firmly grip the edges of the fan cable connector.
Grip your tweezers close the connector to get a better grip.
Pull the connector straight out of the socket to disconnect it.
If you're having trouble, gently rock the connector side to side to loosen it.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
During reassembly, route the fan cable underneath its small cable guide on the fan housing so it doesn't interfere with the back panel.

Slide the fan out of its slot to remove it.
During reassembly:
Before installing the fan, make sure it's clean! Use a dust blower or compressed air to blow off any dust or debris, and wipe the fan clean with a clean cloth.
Use a finger to keep the fan blades steady—it makes them easier to clean.
Note that the fan can only be installed one way—make sure Master Chief is facing you.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the locking tab holding the base to the shell.
Keep the locking tab held open for the next step.

With the locking tab held open, grip the base and rotate it counterclockwise to unlock it from the shell.
Remove the base.
During reassembly, put the base tabs into their holes on the shell and twist clockwise until the base snaps into the interior locking tab.
When locked in place, the Hello from Seattle line will be parallel with the device's sides.

The ribbon cables and their connectors are extremely fragile, so always open locking tabs gently and pull cables slowly.
Use a spudger to flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable.
During reassembly, gently snap the metal locking tab back into place once the cable has been inserted.

Slide an opening pick under the USB port cable to separate the adhesive securing it.
During reassembly, use thin double‑sided adhesive to secure the cable. If there's adhesive left and it's still sticky, you can reuse it. If you have a new cable, check it for pre‑installed adhesive and remove any liners.

Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull up on the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
Move the USB port cable out of the way of the chassis.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to depress the metal tab on the side of the power button cable's board connector.
With the metal tab depressed, use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
Don't pull on the cable without depressing the metal tab, otherwise you risk damaging either the cable or the connector.
During reassembly, the cable should lightly "snap" into place when inserted.

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 7.4 mm‑long green screws securing the center chassis assembly to the shell.

The center chassis assembly is aligned to the bottom of the shell with guide pegs. These pegs will need to slide out of their slots to allow the chassis to be lifted out.
Grip the chassis and pull it towards the top of the shell, uncoupling the guide pegs from the shell.
Use two hands to lift out the chassis to remove it from the shell.
During reassembly:
Make sure neither of the ribbon cables get pinched as you lower the center chassis into the shell.
Use the alignment pegs and cutouts to properly orient the chassis in the shell:
Two pegs on the chassis with cutouts on the bottom of the shell.
Three pegs in the shell with cutouts on the chassis.

Gently place the chassis heatsink-side down on a clean work surface.
During reassembly, this is a good point to clean the heatsink fins of any dust, dirt, or debris that may have built up over time. Use a dust blower or compressed air to clear out the fins.

Be very careful when lifting the cable where it connects to the board. Peel gently, and slide an opening pick under the cable if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.
Peel up the power button cable to fully separate it from the shell.
During reassembly, use thin double‑sided adhesive to secure the cable. If there's adhesive left and it's still sticky, you can reuse it. If you have a new cable, check it for pre‑installed adhesive and remove any liners.

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the 5.5 mm‑long screw securing the power button board.

Check if your replacement power button board comes with a cable. If it doesn't, follow the next three steps to remove and transfer the original cable.
The power button cable is secured to the board with a piece of mild adhesive.
Use an iOpener or a hair dryer to heat the cable next to its connector on the board.

Gently slide an opening pick under the cable to separate the adhesive securing it.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to depress the metal tab on the power button cable's board connector.
With the metal tab depressed, use a pair of tweezers to grip the plastic pull tab and slide the cable out of its socket.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
Don't pull on the cable without depressing the metal tab, otherwise you risk damaging either the cable or the connector.
During reassembly, the cable should lightly "snap" into place when inserted.

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