How to Troubleshoot a GE Front Load Washer Not Starting or Turning Off
ID: 181797
Description: [youtubevideo|LJO8Ey6LY_M]Use this guide if...
Steps:
- Press the power or start button and see if the display responds or if the machine abruptly turns off.
- Listen for any clicking sounds or relay noises coming from inside the washer.
- Keep a 6-in-1 screwdriver, a digital multimeter with thin leads, and a 14 mm socket nearby.
- Keep a door boot spring tool and needle nose pliers nearby if needed for the gasket spring and harness clips.
- Pull the dispenser out fully and press the tab on its left side to release and remove it completely.
- Locate the five screws in the dispenser housing, noting which are fine thread and which are coarse.
- Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove all five screws in the housing.
- Lift the left side of the user interface by about 15 degrees and slide it forward to unlatch it.
- Remove the three screws along the top edge that hold the lid and slide the top panel off toward you.
- Unplug the machine before proceeding with deeper inspection to avoid electric shock risk.
- Locate and remove the two metal screws on the board cover and slide off the panel from the top.
- Find and remove any additional screws or plastic fasteners securing the plastic control board housing.
- Undo any cable ties or clips holding wire bundles and disconnect the pressure switch hose as needed.
- Use a multimeter set to AC voltage on the black and white wires that feed the inverter from the control board.
- Check for normal voltage output and watch for relay clicks every ten seconds which indicates a potential board fault.
- Test the line voltage input on the board to confirm 120 VAC is present if the machine does not power up at all.
- Look for a burnt triac or scorched components near the maroon connector which can indicate pump failure.
- Replace the drain pump if there is evidence of a burnt triac or other obvious board damage.
- Seat the replacement control board into the plastic housing and secure it with three screws.
- Reconnect all wire harnesses following photos or notes and confirm the pressure hose is reattached.
- Plug in the machine and press start to view a single digit code, then press start repeatedly for the correct model code.
- Hold the start button for about five seconds to confirm the personality code and reboot the washer.
- Unplug the machine and set your multimeter to ohms to test the black and brown wires feeding the pump.
- Expect around 20 ohms if the drain pump motor windings are healthy and not overloading the board.
- Open the washer door and remove the two screws on the door lock cover plate on the right side.
- Take out the two screws securing the door lock assembly and pull off the door boot seal wire.
- Remove the three bottom screws under the washer by tilting it back or supporting it against a wall.
- Take out the nine upper screws holding the front bulkhead and slide the bulkhead up and forward.
- Unbolt the 14 mm fasteners holding the lower concrete counterbalance to gain full access underneath.
- Remove the single screw and cable tie to slide out the inverter board assembly from its housing.
- Check for wire damage before removing the plastic cover and detaching the four wire harnesses.
- Replace the pump if the impeller has no strong magnetic resistance or the winding is out of spec.
- Line up the weight on its four mounting studs and thread in the bolts with a socket wrench.
- Verify the weight is seated properly so it does not shift when the washer is operated.
- Position the gasket along the front lip of the washer cabinet and ensure its seal is even.
- Fit the door boot spring around the perimeter and use a suitable spring tool to secure it in place.
- Reinstall all remaining screws for the front bulkhead and reinstall the dispenser screws carefully.
- Slide the top panel back on and secure it with the three screws at the rear of the lid.
- Reconnect power to confirm the machine no longer shuts off abruptly and is fully operational.