Kobo Clara BW (N365B) Screen Replacement

ID: 192077

Description: Use this guide to replace the screen in your...

Steps:

1. Drain your eReader's battery as much as possible before starting your repair. Ideally, it should be fully discharged.
2. Optionally, to drain the battery faster, navigate to More → Settings → Energy saving and privacy and set Automatically go to sleep after and Automatically power off after to Never.
3. When working on or near the battery, don't use sharp metal tools to avoid puncturing and shorting the battery.
4. Unplug all cables and fully shut down your eReader.
5. Your screen should be black and say Powered off.

6. Lay your eReader down so the back cover is facing up.
7. Insert the flat edge of an opening pick between the frame and the bottom left corner of the back cover.
8. Push the pick downwards at a slight angle until it slides under the back cover.

9. Slide the pick toward the bottom right corner to release the clips along the bottom edge.

10. Remove the pick and reinsert it under the bottom left corner.
11. Angle the pick flat under the back cover and rotate it around the bottom left corner to release its clips.
12. If you're having trouble, try twisting the pick to lift the corner clips out of their slots.

13. Slide the pick toward the top left corner to release the clips along the left edge.

14. At this point, you should be able to grip the back cover and release its remaining clips. If not, slide a pick under the perimeter of the back cover until you can grip an edge.
15. Grip the left edge of the back cover and lift it away from the eReader to release the remaining clips.
16. Remove the back cover.
17. During reassembly, align the back cover over the eReader and press along the perimeter until all its clips snap back into place.

18. Nearly the entire surface of the eReader's internals is covered in a thin, plastic-like waterproof coating. Keep the following in mind as you continue disassembly:
19. While this won't hurt your device, removing the coating compromises the device to potential water damage.
20. The coating is brittle and can flake into many small pieces. Heating the coating helps, but working with it is still a time-consuming process.
21. The ZIF connector locking tabs are coated in a gel that can jam the hinge and keep the locking tab from completely unlocking. Make sure the tabs are completely upright before disconnecting any cables.
22. Depending on your repair, you might have to remove the coating completely from the connectors and their cables.
23. If at any point the coating becomes too difficult to work with, heat it for 90 seconds with an iOpener or a hair dryer.

24. Use a clean fingernail or the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
25. Don't pull on what looks like a clear connector pull tab. The tab is secured to the socket gasket.

26. Insert the tip of an opening pick under the battery flex cable.
27. Slide the pick along the cable to separate it from the waterproof coating.
28. You'll probably pull up a bit of coating from the frame. This is fine and won't affect the eReader's functionality.

29. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 2.8 mm‑long screws securing the battery to the eReader.

30. Lift the battery off the frame and remove it.
31. If you're transferring the battery to a new screen, inspect the battery for any dents or deformations.
32. Never reuse a damaged battery! If your battery shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one.

33. Use the point of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the power button cable ZIF connector.
34. The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If it isn't, gently push the tab forward to compress the waterproofing gel and unlock the tab.
35. Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
36. During reassembly:
37. Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
38. Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
39. It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

40. Insert an arm of a pair of sharp tweezers under the edge of the power button board.
41. Slide the arm along the edge of the board to separate enough adhesive to fit an opening pick under the board.

42. Insert the tip of an opening pick underneath the power button board.
43. Slide the pick along the edge of the power button board to separate the adhesive.
44. Gently twist the pick to separate the adhesive on both sides.

45. Peel the power button board up and off of the frame to remove it.
46. During reassembly, follow this guide to transfer your power button board to a new screen or to install a new one.

47. Various small, fragile surface-mounted components surround the motherboard ZIF connectors. Avoid prying against them.
48. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the digitizer cable ZIF connector.
49. The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If it isn't, gently push the tab forward to compress the waterproofing gel and unlock the tab.
50. Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
51. During reassembly:
52. Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
53. Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
54. It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

55. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the display cable ZIF connector.
56. The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If it isn't, gently push the tab forward to compress the waterproofing gel and unlock the tab.
57. Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
58. If the coating feels stubborn, you may need to lightly heat it with an iOpener or a hair dryer.
59. During reassembly:
60. Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
61. Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
62. It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

63. Pull the display cable away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily at a level angle to separate the coating at the corners.
64. If you're having trouble, try rocking the cable side-to-side while pulling.
65. Once the cable comes completely out of its socket, lift it up and peel off any remaining coating holding it to the motherboard.
66. Lift the display cable out of the way of the backlight cable underneath.

67. Use the point of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the backlight cable ZIF connector.
68. The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If it isn't, gently push the tab forward to compress the waterproofing gel and unlock the tab.
69. Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
70. If the coating feels stubborn, you may need to lightly heat it with an iOpener or a hair dryer.
71. During reassembly:
72. Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
73. Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
74. It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

75. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 2.4 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard.

76. Slide an opening pick under the top left corner of the motherboard and lift it up enough to grip it with your fingers.

77. Lift the top edge of the motherboard and pull it toward the top of the eReader to remove it.
78. During reassembly:
79. Slide the charging port into its slot at a slight downward angle before pressing the motherboard flat to the frame.
80. Follow this guide to update the VCOM number on your eReader to match your screen.

81. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 3 mm‑long screws securing corners of the front cover.

82. The screen is secured by adhesive along the perimeter of the front cover and a layer of coating at the bottom edge.
83. Bend the top edge of the front cover around the screen to separate the adhesive.

84. Lift the top edge of the screen to separate any remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the front cover.
85. Slide the screen toward the top of the eReader to expose the coating at the bottom edge.

86. Lift and rotate the screen off the bottom edge of the front cover to separate the coating.
87. Remove the screen.
88. You've now disassembled your eReader enough to transfer the internals to your new screen.
89. During reassembly:
90. Align the front cover over the screen and press down around the perimeter until the clips snap back into place.
91. Follow this guide to update the VCOM number on your eReader to match the replacement screen.