How to Troubleshoot Drainage Issues in a Hisense Washing Machine

ID: 218477

Description: [youtubevideo|_sk_qp-DuWA]Use this guide if a...

Steps:

1. Switch the washing machine off at the power supply and unplug it.
2. Never work on the washer while it's plugged in, because water and electricity can cause serious injury.
3. Turn the cold water inlet tap 90 degrees to shut off the washer's water supply.
4. If you can't find the inlet tap, close the main stopcock.
5. Learn where the main stopcock is before a plumbing emergency.
6. Only isolate an outside supply if it controls this home; don't turn off a shared supply in a block of flats.
7. If you can't safely isolate the water, stop and contact a plumber.
8. Open the drum door carefully only if the water level is below the door opening.
9. Use a sponge to remove as much water from the drum as possible.
10. Keep old towels nearby because more water will come from the filter area.
11. Use a small teaspoon as a blunt lever to open the lower-right access flap.
12. Find the drain pump filter, also called the coin catcher, behind the flap.
13. Common blockages include hair, hair clips, coins, hair bands, elastic bands, face masks, and color catchers.
14. Put old towels and sponges under the filter opening.
15. Expect dirty, smelly water even after the drum has been emptied.
16. If the machine has a small drain hose beside the filter, drain it into a bucket before loosening the filter.
17. Turn the filter counterclockwise a small amount by hand.
18. Do not remove the filter fully at first; let water drain out slowly.
19. Soak up the water with a sponge, squeeze it into a sink, and repeat until little water comes out.
20. If the filter won't turn, tighten it slightly, loosen it again, and repeat until the blockage works loose.
21. Avoid tipping the washer backward unless necessary; it is heavy, and moving it can pull rear pipework loose.
22. Gently pull the filter out once water stops draining.
23. Remove hair, coins, clips, bands, face masks, color catchers, and other debris from the filter.
24. Dispose of the debris.
25. Scrub the filter with hot, soapy water and an brush.
26. Plan to run a drum clean cycle after reassembly if the water or filter area smelled bad.
27. Wear cleaning gloves before reaching into the dirty filter housing.
28. Check inside the filter housing for debris.
29. Remove as much debris as you can from the pump and impeller area.
30. Scrub accessible grime with hot, soapy water and an brush.
31. Use a fingertip or the brush handle to nudge the impeller at the back of the housing.
32. The impeller won't spin completely freely, but it should turn relatively easily.
33. Stop and contact a washing machine engineer if the impeller stays jammed after debris is removed.
34. Line up the cleaned filter with the housing and insert it gently.
35. Turn the filter clockwise by hand until it locks in place.
36. Do not use pliers on the filter, because they can crack or break it.
37. Dry the area with a tea towel.
38. Close the access flap, or leave it open during the first test cycle so leaks are easier to see.
39. Plug the washer back in and switch it on.
40. Turn the cold water inlet feed back on.
41. If you closed the main stopcock, open it fully and turn it back slightly to help stop it seizing.
42. Add washing machine cleaner to the drum if you are using it.
43. Run the drum clean cycle or an empty 90 °C wash.
44. This flushes dirt and debris and helps keep the washer hygienically fresh.
45. If the washer drains correctly, leave the detergent drawer and drum door slightly open after washes for ventilation.
46. If the washer still doesn't drain, switch it off, unplug it, and isolate the cold water feed again.
47. Identify the drain layout before disconnecting anything.
48. Most installations drain through a rear u-bend or through an under-sink waste connection.
49. A washer that isn't near a sink usually drains through rear pipework.
50. Pull the washer out gently if the drain hose connects at the rear.
51. Get help moving the washer and avoid stretching the rear hoses, because washing machines are heavy.
52. Place towels, rags, sponges, and a tray under the rear drain connection.
53. Gently remove the washer drain hose from the rear u-bend.
54. Catch excess water from the hose and pipework.
55. Clean residue and gunge from the hose end and pipe opening with hot, soapy water.
56. Use a mobile phone camera with the flash on to look down the drain pipe for a blockage.
57. Clear water in the pipe usually means this section isn't blocked.
58. Remove and clean the u-bend or trap if the pipe is full of sludge.
59. Unscrew the u-bend or trap fittings by hand if the threaded fittings aren't glued.
60. Do not force glued or stuck fittings; contact a plumber if they won't loosen by hand.
61. Keep towels, rags, sponges, and trays under the fittings to catch water.
62. Gently remove the u-bend or trap.
63. Dispose of residue and clean the parts with hot, soapy water.
64. Line the parts back up and tighten the fittings by hand only.
65. Do not use tools to tighten plastic waste fittings, because overtightening can crack them.
66. Put the washing machine drain hose back into the rear drain before any test cycle to prevent flooding.
67. Place a tray or bucket under the under-sink waste connection.
68. Most hoses are held by a clip or cable tie.
69. Use pliers to squeeze a metal spring clip and slide it back from the hose connection.
70. Gently slide the rubber hose off and catch any water, residue, or gunge.
71. Check the hose and waste connection for blockages.
72. Clean the hose end and waste connection with hot, soapy water.
73. Push the hose fully back onto the waste connection and refit the clip.
74. If no clip is fitted, secure the hose with a cable tie.
75. Remove the under-sink u-bend if sludge or a blockage may still be inside it.
76. Clean it the same way as the rear u-bend and refit it by hand.
77. Confirm every drain hose, clip, and u-bend fitting is secured before testing.
78. Plug the washer back in and turn the cold water feed on.
79. If you shut the main stopcock, open it fully and turn it back slightly to help stop it seizing.
80. Run the drum clean cycle or an empty 90 °C wash with washing machine cleaner.
81. Watch the filter flap and pipework for leaks during the test cycle.
82. Leave the detergent drawer and drum door slightly open after washes for ventilation.
83. Check the outside drainage for a blockage if the washer still doesn't drain and the outside drain is safe to access.
84. A persistent fault can also come from a faulty drain pump or a faulty computer board.
85. Contact a washing machine engineer or plumber if the outside drain is blocked, the pump won't run, the impeller stays jammed, or leaks continue.
86. Get professional help if any pipework is glued, stuck, inaccessible, or you're unsure about isolating water or power.
87. Don't keep running wash programs while the washer can't drain, because it can flood the floor and strain the pump.