Kenmore Stove Turbo Boil Burner Element Replacement

ID: 221340

Description: [youtubevideo|LngaKJKcujo]Use this guide to...

Steps:

1. Identify the large turbo boil burner that is not heating correctly.
2. This burner combines two heating circuits in one assembly: a large primary winding and a smaller secondary winding.
3. The two outer burner terminals feed the primary winding.
4. The two inner burner terminals feed the secondary winding.
5. On this stove, the orange wires feed the primary winding and the center wires feed the secondary winding.
6. Set the burner control below 5 to power only the primary winding.
7. At 5 or higher, the secondary switch closes and powers the full burner.
8. The incoming 240 volt supply wires are black with red and red with black.
9. The orange wires leave the main switch and feed the primary winding.
10. The white wire goes directly to the burner. The red wire passes through the secondary switch and leaves on the blue wire.
11. Turn all stove controls off and let the cooktop cool completely.
12. Unplug the stove from the wall before removing panels, testing resistance, or touching any wiring.
13. If the plug isn't accessible, turn off the range breaker and verify the stove has no power.
14. Don't perform live 240 volt testing unless you're trained and properly equipped.
15. Wear work gloves if the rear panel or cooktop frame has sharp sheet metal edges.
16. Check whether the other burners and the oven work normally.
17. If only one burner fails, the stove likely has the correct supply voltage.
18. If multiple burners or the oven don't work, check the breaker or outlet before replacing the burner.
19. Pull the knob straight off the faulty burner switch.
20. Use a screwdriver to remove the two screws behind the knob.
21. Slide the burner switch out from the back of the control panel.
22. Keep the screws organized so they return to the same locations during reassembly.
23. Inspect the back of the switch and identify the two incoming 240 volt wires.
24. Identify the two orange wires that run from the switch to the primary winding.
25. Identify the white secondary wire and the blue wire leaving the small secondary switch.
26. Take a photo, draw a quick wiring diagram, or write down the wire positions before moving anything.
27. Remove the rear panel to access the burner wiring.
28. Set a multimeter to measure resistance in ohms.
29. Keep the stove unplugged while using the ohms setting.
30. Don't lift the glass cooktop just to perform these resistance checks.
31. Connect the multimeter leads to the two orange primary-winding wires.
32. Look for a stable resistance reading.
33. A good primary winding measured about 26 ohms on the stove used for this guide.
34. An open or out-of-range reading means the burner element is faulty.
35. Connect one multimeter lead to the white secondary burner wire.
36. Connect the other lead to the blue wire leaving the small secondary switch.
37. Look for a stable resistance reading.
38. A good secondary winding measured almost 50 ohms on the stove used for this guide.
39. The red wire feeds the secondary switch only when the burner control is set to 5 or higher.
40. Replace the burner element if either winding reads open or far outside the expected range.
41. If both windings test good but the burner still doesn't heat, diagnose or replace the burner switch.
42. If the burner has primary heat but no extra heat at 5 or higher, the secondary switch circuit is the most likely problem.
43. Have a helper ready before lifting the cooktop or removing a burner brace.
44. Find the two screws under the front ledge of the cooktop, closest to the oven cavity.
45. Use a screwdriver to remove only those two cooktop screws.
46. Don't remove the three nearby screws holding the metal plate in place.
47. Lift the front edge of the glass cooktop to expose the burners.
48. Keep the stove unplugged while the cooktop is open.
49. The burners don't attach directly to the glass; metal braces hold them against the underside of the cooktop.
50. Each brace is secured by one screw at each end.
51. Support the faulty burner brace with a helper or a sturdy box placed under the center.
52. Removing this brace can let both burners on the brace drop.
53. Use a stubby screwdriver to reach the brace screws.
54. Some brace screws use Phillips heads, and others use 1/4 inch heads.
55. Remove the screw from each end of the brace while it is supported.
56. Note which mounting holes the old burner uses on both sides before lifting it from the brace.
57. The burner sits on the brace with small pins, and there are multiple mounting positions.
58. Take photos of the burner wiring before disconnecting anything.
59. All six wires must return to the same terminals on the replacement burner.
60. Disconnect all wires from the burner element.
61. Squeeze the tab on one lower mounting clip while lifting the burner so the clip clears the slot.
62. Repeat on the other side.
63. Lift the burner out of the brace.
64. Pull on the connector terminals, not on the wires.
65. Move the two lower mounting clips to the same numbered holes on the new burner.
66. Use the recorded hole positions from the old burner to place one clip on each side.
67. The clip positions must match so the hot burner ring lines up with the ring on the glass cooktop.
68. Handle the new burner carefully and avoid touching the brittle outer material or the heating element winding.
69. The outer material can crumble, and the element itself is fragile.
70. Set the new burner onto the brace using the same slots as the old burner.
71. Snap the lower mounting clips into the brace slots.
72. Reconnect all six wires to the same terminals shown in your photos or wiring diagram.
73. Confirm the primary and secondary winding wires are not swapped or loose.
74. Raise the brace back against the underside of the glass cooktop.
75. Use the helper or sturdy box to support the brace while you reinstall the screw at each end.
76. Make sure both burners on the brace sit squarely against the glass.
77. Lower the cooktop and reinstall the two front ledge screws.
78. Reinstall the rear panel, the burner switch, the two switch screws, and the knob if you removed them.
79. Plug the stove back into the wall outlet.
80. Turn the repaired burner to high and watch the element heat.
81. Keep hands, tools, and loose items away from the cooktop while the element is on.
82. The full burner should heat across both the primary and secondary sections.
83. Turn the burner off and let the cooktop cool before touching or cleaning the area.