How to Troubleshoot a Samsung Dryer That Won't Start or Spin

ID: 221357

Description: [youtubevideo|MNv1AEW-3Uc]Use this guide to...

Steps:

1. Unplug the dryer before removing panels or taking resistance readings.
2. Never use ohms mode on a powered circuit, because it can damage the meter and expose you to electric shock.
3. Close the gas shutoff valve if the dryer uses gas.
4. Let the dryer cool before working near the blower housing or thermal cutoff.
5. Pull the dryer away from the wall and turn it so you can reach the rear of the top panel.
6. Remove the two screws holding the top panel in place.
7. Lift off the top panel.
8. Set the screws aside where they will not get lost.
9. Look on top of the drum for the drive belt.
10. Confirm that the belt is tight around the drum.
11. Rotate the drum by hand and watch whether the belt moves with it.
12. If the belt moves with the drum, the blower wheel is probably not obstructed.
13. If the drum or belt will not move, stop and check for a blower-wheel or drum obstruction before forcing anything.
14. If the belt is broken or off the drum, replace it before testing the motor circuit.
15. A broken belt lets the idler arm press the broken-belt switch and cut power to the motor.
16. Remove the three screws holding the control board in place.
17. Pull the control board out far enough to reach the wire connections.
18. Hook the control board onto the side of the dryer, or use a small clamp to hold it steady.
19. Keep the dryer unplugged while the board is exposed.
20. Locate the black wire that feeds power to the control board and motor relay.
21. Locate the brown wire that leaves the relay and feeds the motor circuit.
22. Follow that circuit path through the broken-belt switch, the thermal cutoff on the blower housing, the motor windings, and neutral.
23. Locate the yellow wire, which is the control-board neutral used for this resistance test.
24. Set a multimeter to ohms.
25. Connect one meter lead to the yellow neutral wire at the control board.
26. Touch the other meter lead to the brown motor-relay output wire and make sure the probe has a solid connection.
27. Read the resistance across the complete motor circuit.
28. A reading around 2 ohms means the motor windings, broken-belt switch, and thermal cutoff are continuous.
29. If the circuit reads around 2 ohms but the dryer still will not run during a normal start attempt, replace the control board because the motor relay is bad.
30. An OL reading means the circuit is open at the motor windings, broken-belt switch, or thermal cutoff.
31. Use this fault flow to choose the next test or repair.
32. If the belt is broken or off the drum, replace the belt.
33. If the control-board test reads around 2 ohms and the dryer still will not start, replace the control board.
34. If the control-board test shows OL, test the broken-belt switch.
35. If the belt switch tests good, test the thermal cutoff on the blower housing.
36. If the thermal cutoff tests good, test the motor windings.
37. Replace the part that fails its individual test before retesting the dryer.
38. Find the broken-belt switch by locating the two brown wires on the switch near the idler arm.
39. Check the idler-arm position.
40. With a good belt installed, the idler arm sits up and does not press the switch lever.
41. With a broken belt, the idler arm falls and presses the switch lever.
42. The pressed switch opens the motor circuit and stops the motor.
43. Remove the screw holding the broken-belt switch if the meter probes cannot reach the wire terminals.
44. Set the multimeter to ohms.
45. Place the meter leads on the two broken-belt switch terminals.
46. Leave the switch button out and confirm that the meter shows a complete circuit.
47. A good switch may read about 0.1 ohm with the button out.
48. Press the switch button in and confirm that the meter changes to an open circuit.
49. Replace the broken-belt switch if it does not close with the button out or open with the button pressed.
50. Locate the thermal cutoff on the blower housing.
51. Pull the two wires off the thermal-cutoff terminals.
52. Pull on the connectors, not the wires, to avoid damaging the terminals.
53. Set the multimeter to ohms and touch one lead to each terminal.
54. A good thermal cutoff shows resistance from terminal to terminal.
55. Replace the thermal cutoff if the meter shows OL.
56. Locate the yellow and brown motor wires on motor terminals 5 and 4.
57. Set the multimeter to ohms.
58. Touch one meter lead to the yellow wire terminal and the other lead to the brown wire terminal.
59. Keep the probes from touching nearby metal or other terminals, because the space around the motor is tight.
60. A good start winding reads around 2 ohms, such as 1.7 to 1.9 ohms.
61. Press the centrifugal switch in and check for a run-winding reading around 3.4 ohms.
62. Replace the drive motor if the readings do not match these checks.
63. Attach an adjustable wrench to the motor pulley and lay the wrench across the idler wheel to hold the motor.
64. Use a 9/16 inch socket on the blower-wheel nut.
65. Turn the nut as if tightening it, because the blower-wheel nut uses reverse threads.
66. Remove the blower-wheel nut completely.
67. Use a large flathead screwdriver to release the two motor clamps from the bracket.
68. Release the front clamp and the rear clamp.
69. Pull the blower wheel forward with one hand while pushing the motor back.
70. Lift the motor out of the bracket.
71. Install the replacement part that matched the failed test.
72. Reinstall the motor in the bracket if you removed it.
73. Secure the front and rear motor clamps, and remember that the blower-wheel nut uses reverse threads.
74. Reinstall the control board and the top panel with their screws.
75. Confirm that the belt is tight around the drum and moves with the drum by hand.
76. Plug the dryer in only after all panels and wiring are secured.
77. Start a cycle and confirm that the drum spins.