How to Troubleshoot E11 and F2 Fill Errors in an Electrolux Washing Machine

ID: 221460

Description: [youtubevideo|dLQlx7zf4pY]Use this guide to...

Steps:

1. Gather a Phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers, a multimeter, and back probes if you plan to test the control board.
2. Turn off both wall water valves before removing the fill hoses.
3. Unplug the washer before removing panels, hoses, or wire connectors.
4. Reconnect power only for diagnostic mode or live-voltage testing, and keep your hands away from exposed wiring.
5. Remove the hot and cold fill hoses from the back of the washer.
6. Confirm that both wall valves supply water pressure.
7. Repair or replace the home plumbing valve if either one does not supply water.
8. Inspect the washer inlets where the fill hoses thread onto the water valve.
9. Look for gunk, rust, debris, or clogged valve screens.
10. Use needle nose pliers to pull the small screens out for inspection.
11. Clean any clogged screens before reinstalling them.
12. A blocked screen can prevent water from entering the washer and trigger an E11 or F2 fill error.
13. Reinstall the screens and fill hoses, then turn the wall water valves back on.
14. Plug in the washer and leave the power off.
15. Press Power to boot the washer.
16. Select the Normal wash mode with the dial or cycle selector.
17. Press Start, let the door lock, and let the washer run for about 10 seconds.
18. Cancel the cycle, turn the washer off, and wait a few seconds.
19. Press Power again and leave the selector on Normal.
20. Within 10 seconds, press and hold Temperature and Option Select Deselect for 3 seconds.
21. The indicator lights should blink when diagnostic mode opens.
22. Rotate the dial to a diagnostic mode from one through six.
23. Listen for water entering the tub as each mode forces a valve open.
24. Repeat the test through modes one through six to check the different valve sections.
25. Some Electrolux versions do not use every valve mode, but they should still have at least some fill modes.
26. Watch the number on the display or dial during each fill test.
27. Confirm that the displayed number rises as water fills the tub.
28. A rising number means the pressure sensor is reading the water level.
29. Inspect the pressure sensor and pressure hose if the number does not rise.
30. Let the washer fill until it shuts off automatically.
31. The washer should stop filling when the number reaches about 140 to 145.
32. Suspect the pressure hose, pressure sensor, or suds in the pressure hose if the washer errors out before the display reaches 140.
33. Suds left from a D5 error can affect water-level calculation and trigger E11 or another fill-related code.
34. Select test 11 to run the drain pump and remove the water after a successful fill test.
35. Select test 13 to view stored error codes.
36. Power the washer down after diagnostics.
37. Unplug the washer and remove the fill hoses again if needed.
38. Move the washer so you can reach the rear of the cabinet.
39. Remove the two screws from the back of the top panel with a Phillips screwdriver.
40. Pull the top panel rearward and remove it.
41. Locate the water valves at the rear of the cabinet.
42. Locate the pressure sensor in the front-left corner when viewing the washer from behind.
43. The tech sheet inside the cabinet may include model-specific error codes and diagnostic details.
44. Rotate the pressure sensor one-quarter turn and lift it out of its mount.
45. Unplug the wire harness from the pressure sensor.
46. Press the hose clip and pull the hose off the sensor.
47. Inspect the hose connection for damage or suds before installing a new sensor.
48. Install a matching 5304505436 Electrolux pressure switch if the sensor failed.
49. Reattach the hose and clip, then reconnect the wire harness.
50. Press the sensor into place or rotate it one-quarter turn to lock it.
51. Follow the pressure hose down the side of the washer to the sump area.
52. Remove the six screws from the rear back plate with a Phillips screwdriver if you need access from behind.
53. Disconnect the hose and pressure-test it if you suspect damage, blockage, or suds.
54. Blow or push pressure through the hose to clear suds that could keep the sensor from reading water level correctly.
55. Do not assume the pressure sensor is bad if the hose is damaged or blocked.
56. Remove the four screws from the rear vibration damper with a Phillips screwdriver.
57. Lift the damper up and out.
58. The damper is a little heavy, so support it with both hands.
59. Remove the right dispenser-brace screw.
60. Loosen the left dispenser-brace screw.
61. Slide the dispenser assembly forward slightly if the slot gives you more room around the valves.
62. Disconnect the wire harnesses from the water valves.
63. Depending on the revision, there may be one or two valve harness sets.
64. Remove the left valve screw and the right valve screw with a Phillips screwdriver.
65. Remove the hidden underside valve screw.
66. Cradle your hand under the hidden screw and use a magnetized screwdriver tip to keep it from falling onto the tub.
67. Use a flathead screwdriver or blunt putty knife to pry the valve away from the dispenser.
68. Removing the dispenser first exposes the valve screws, but it is not required.
69. Watch the rubber grommets on each valve as the valve separates from the dispenser.
70. Move any grommets that lifted off with the old valve onto the new valve.
71. Leave any grommets that stayed in the dispenser where they are.
72. Seat the rubber grommets correctly in the valve or housing to prevent leaks.
73. Position a matching 5304528029 Electrolux water valve on the rear of the dispenser.
74. Use the rubber grommets to help hold the valve in place while you start the screws.
75. Install the two side screws lightly.
76. Tighten the hidden bottom screw fully.
77. Tighten the two side screws fully.
78. Reinstall the damper and the two dispenser-brace screws.
79. Reconnect the valve wire harnesses.
80. Reinstall the top panel and the two rear screws.
81. Reconnect the fill hoses and turn the wall water valves back on.
82. Plug the washer in and run a fill cycle or diagnostic fill test.
83. Check the hose connections, water valve, and dispenser area for leaks.
84. The repair is complete if the washer fills and drains normally without returning the E11 or F2 error.
85. Use this live-voltage test only if the inlet screens are clean and the pressure sensor, pressure hose, and water valve do not explain the problem.
86. Live 120 volts AC testing can shock, burn, or kill you; skip this test unless you can safely use a multimeter on an energized appliance.
87. Leave the top panel off, reconnect water and power, and enter diagnostic mode.
88. Set the multimeter to AC voltage.
89. Install back probes on the multimeter leads.
90. Locate the white neutral wire from the power plug at control-board connector J1-2.
91. Place one multimeter probe on the J1-2 white neutral wire.
92. Rotate the dial through diagnostic modes one through eight.
93. Touch the other probe to the wire-harness contacts leading to the water valves.
94. Check modes one through six because they change which valve segment is powered.
95. A working board should send about 120 volts AC from J1-2 to the active valve-harness contact.
96. Treat the control board as failed if no valve-harness contact shows 120 volts AC in any fill mode.
97. Unplug the washer before removing the control board or any board connectors.
98. Replace the control board only after confirming that it does not send 120 volts AC to any valve during the fill tests.
99. Use the exact control board for the washer model and follow the model-specific tech sheet or service procedure.